Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
I repeat, that the earth does not contain two towns that, in their
histories, habits, objects, avocations, origins, and general characters,
are so completely the converse of each other, as Rome and New York. If
the people of these two places could be made, reciprocally, to pass a
year within each other’s limits, the communion would be infinitely
salutary to both; for while one party might partially awake from its
dream of centuries, the other might discover that there is something
valuable besides money.
How much longer Rome will stand, is a question of curious speculation. I
do not remember to have seen a single edifice in the course of
construction within its walls; those already in existence sufficing, in
the main, for its wants. The long supremacy of the Papacy, succeeding so
soon to that of the Empire, has been the means of bringing Rome down to
our own times; else would the place have most probably been an utter
ruin. The palaces of the great nobility, many of whom still possess
large estates, the general advancement of Europe in taste, and in a love
for art and antiquities, which induce crowds from other countries to
resort hither, and the traffic in cameos, mosaics, statuary, and
castings, which adds to the other receipts of the place, will probably
suffice to keep Rome a town of interest for ages to come. Its greatest
enemy is the _malaria_, which some people affirm is slowly increasing in
malignity and extent annually, while others affirm it is stationary. As
the descent towards the sea must, in the nature of things, be gradually
lessening, it is quite within the limits of possibility that the fate of
this illustrious place should be finally decided by the slow progress of
those invisible and mysterious means that Providence is known to use in
carrying out the great scheme of creation. After all its wars, and
sieges, and conflagrations, Rome will, in all likelihood, finally fall
“without hands.” If you quicken your movements a little, however, it
will probably be in your power to reach this memorable spot in time to
anticipate the consummation. Like the often-predicted and much-desired
dissolution of the American union, it will not arrive in your time or
mine.
Our pic-nic on Monte Mario, all this time, is forgotten. It included
Russians, Poles, French, Swiss, Germans, Italians, &c. but no English. I
was the only one present who spoke the English as a mother tongue. We
had a table placed beneath the trees, and ranged ourselves so as to
overlook Rome, while we indulged in creature-comforts _ad libitum_. A
thunder-cloud gathered among the Sabine Hills, forming a noble
background to a panorama of desolation; but the sun continued to shine
on Rome itself, as if to show that its light was never to be
extinguished.
Among the guests was a clever Frenchman, who had written a witty work on
a journey around his own bed-chamber. By way of a practical commentary
on his own theoretical travels, he was now making the tour of Europe, in
a gig!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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