Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
LETTER XXVI.
The Carnival at Rome.—Masquerade at a Theatre.—Ludicrous
mistake there.—Joke on a New England Clergyman.—Beauty
of Roman Women.—Gaieties of the Carnival.—Sugar-plum
artillery.—The Races.—Extinguishing of Tapers.—Observance of
Lent, and of Palm Sunday.—Canonical orders of the Romish
Church.—Cardinals.—Popes.—Ceremonies of Holy Week.—The Benediction
of the Pope.—Impression left by these ceremonies.—Illumination of
St. Peter’s.—Fireworks.
We have had the Carnival, with its follies and fun, and are now in the
Holy Week. During the former, the Papal Government relaxes much of its
severity, admitting of balls, masquerades, ballets, and operas. Although
Rome has several theatres, it is not allowed to open them unless in
these seasons of licensed gaiety; the clerical character of the
government imposing observances, that are not much attended to
elsewhere.
The public masquerades take place in the theatres. One, in particular,
in our immediate neighbourhood, is much frequented for such purposes,
and the music alone repays one for the trouble of dressing and masking.
The pit and stage are floored, so as to form an immense sala; and the
boxes, which in Europe are almost always separated from each other by
partitions, are privately hired by families and parties to sit in
unmasked. I confess to the folly of preferring a mask, though my
ambition has never yet tempted me to go beyond the domino. These places
contain the usual proportions of warriors, Greeks, peasants, doctors,
which are a favourite character at Rome, devils and buffoons. The
Italians are a people of strong humour, and they act their parts, on the
whole, better than most other nations; though a masquerade, at the best,
is but a dull affair, it is so much easier to find money to cover the
body with a rich dress, than brains to support the character!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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