Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
The ceremonies that succeeded those of Palm Sunday have been imposing
and rich, and the music of the highest character. But these things have
been too often told to find a place in these desultory gleanings. One
thing, however, has astonished me: I mean the indecent and pertinacious
pushing of strangers. There is a corps of halberdiers here, composed of
Swiss. One of these men is of great strength and stature, and I saw the
poor fellow in a premature purgatory, endeavouring to keep back the
English women, who pressed for admittance into a room that was not ready
to receive them. The perspiration rolled from him in streams, and
finally he gave up the point in despair. It is necessary to have
witnessed such a scene to believe it possible.
Towards the last, we had the Benedictions. There were two of these
ceremonies, on one of which the Pope blesses Rome, and on the other, the
earth. The latter was very imposing. The ambassadors went in state, as
well as all the high nobility; and seats were prepared around the great
altar in St. Peter’s. Vast as this edifice is, it was well garnished
with human faces; but it will scarcely do to say it was crowded. The
Pope appeared among us, borne on men’s shoulders, amid waving plumes, in
a chair of gold—that is to say, famously gilt.
The benediction is given from a balcony in the front of the church, and
the people are in the area between the colonnades. The space is
sufficient for ten times the number that collected. The colonnades, too,
are occupied, and in one of them I took my station. Observing a
respectable looking black man behind me, curious to know who he could
be, I took an occasion to address him in French. He answered me
imperfectly; and I tried Italian, but with little better success. Of
English he knew nothing; but he threw me into the shade by commencing a
conversation in Latin. I was too rusty to do much at this, but I
understood enough to discover that he was a Romish priest from
Africa—probably connected with the Propaganda. When I told him I was an
American, he looked at me with interest, and I thought he was as much
astonished at my colour as I could possibly be with his. What a
missionary for America!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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