Fashion -- 19th century -- Periodicals; United States -- Social life and customs -- 19th century -- Periodicals; Women's periodicals, American
In the Middle Ages, we read that the necklaces of women were set with
jewels and stones; and that some, called _serpents_, from the fashion
of them, were also in vogue; and in the fifteenth and sixteenth
centuries, the necklaces of English ladies were arranged in the same
manner as the rayed ones of the Romans.
Queen Elizabeth is always represented wearing strings of pearls,
or jewelled carcanets, and the royal example appears to have been
very generally followed by the dames of her realm, whose taste for
a profusion of such ornaments has been handed down to us by the
dramatists and other writers of the period; though in her reign, as
in her father's, sumptuary laws were made to prevent persons below a
certain rank from appearing in them.
Barclay, in his "Ship of Fools," printed A. D. 1508, speaks of some who
had their necks
"Charged with collars and chains,
In golden withes."
And in a curious work called "The Four Pees," of John Heywood, written
1560, he makes the Peddler vaunt, amongst other vanities of women,
"of all manner of beads." The penalty for wearing anything of gold
or gilt about the neck, in Henry VIII.'s time, unless the wearer was
a gentleman, or could prove that he possessed, over all charges,
200_l._ yearly value, was the forfeiture of the same; a regulation well
calculated to maintain the restriction in fact.
All this while certain superstitions existed with regard to the
necklace, as well as to all other trinkets of which gold and precious
stones made part, occasioned, probably, by the antique use of gems
as amulets, and from the pretended occult powers ascribed to them by
the alchemists. Even Elizabeth, with all her keenness and masculine
strength of mind, save where vanity and its natural craving, the love
of admiration, were concerned, appears to have been just as impressible
upon such subjects as a peasant girl; and we find the Lord Chancellor
Hatton sending her a ring (in all probability of agate), to be worn on
her breast, against infectious air. The physicians of those days did
much to sustain the "charm" of our subject. Necklaces made of the root
of the male peony were worn for the prevention of the falling sickness,
while those made of amber were deemed good against infection; and to
the doctrine of signatures, which connected the medical properties of
substances with their forms and color, we may safely trace the common
practice of ornamenting young children with necklaces of coral, as well
as the invention of the silver-belled trifle, so called.
With the same purpose (that of assisting their teething), the anodyne
necklace, which is made of beads of the white bryony, is sometimes
hung around the necks of infants, sustaining, even in our own times, a
lingering faith in the medical virtues of the amulet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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