Fashion -- 19th century -- Periodicals; United States -- Social life and customs -- 19th century -- Periodicals; Women's periodicals, American
MOTHER-OF-PEARL, or NACRE, is the hard, silvery, internal layer of several
kinds of shells, especially oysters, the large varieties of which in the
Indian seas secrete this coat of sufficient thickness to render the shell
an object of manufacture. The genus of shell-fish, _Pentadinæ_, furnishes
the finest pearls as well as mother-of-pearl: it is found round the coasts
of Ceylon, near Ormus in the Persian Gulf, at Cape Comorin, and in some of
the Australian seas. The dealers in pearl-shells consider the Chinese from
Manilla to be the best: they are fine, large, and very brilliant, with
yellow edges. Fine large shells of a dead white are supplied by Singapore.
Common varieties come from Bombay and Valparaiso, from the latter place
with jet black edges. South Sea pearl-shells are common, with white edges.
The beautiful dark-green pearl-shells called _ear-shells_ or _sea-ears_
are more concave than the others, and have small holes round the margin:
they are the coverings of the _Haliotis_, which occurs in the Californian,
South African, and East Indian seas.
In the Indian collection of the Great Exhibition in London, specimens of
the finest pearl-shells were shown, known in commerce as _flat-shells_,
_ear-shells_, _green snail-shells_, _buffalo-shells_, _Bombay shells_. It
is stated that the shores of the Sooloo Islands afford the finest shells.
The beautiful tints of mother-of-pearl depend upon its structure;
the surface being covered with a multitude of minute grooves, which
decompose the reflected light. Sir David Brewster, who was the first to
explain these chromatic effects, discovered, on examining the surface
of mother-of-pearl with a microscope, "a grooved structure, like the
delicate texture of the skin at the top of an infant's finger, or like
the section of the annual growths of wood as seen upon a dressed plank
of fir. These may sometimes be seen by the naked eye; but they are often
so minute that 3,000 of them are contained in an inch." It is remarkable
that these iridescent hues can be communicated to other surfaces as a
seal imparts its impress to wax. The colors may be best seen by taking
an impression of the mother-of-pearl in black wax; but "a solution of
gum-arabic or of isinglass (white glue), when allowed to indurate upon
a surface of mother-of-pearl, takes a most perfect impression from it,
and exhibits all the communicable colors in the finest manner, when seen
either by reflection or transmission. By placing the isinglass between two
finely-polished surfaces of good specimens of mother-of-pearl, we obtain
a film of artificial mother-of-pearl, which, when seen by single lights,
such as that of a candle, or by an aperture in the window, will shine with
the brightest hues."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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