Fashion -- 19th century -- Periodicals; United States -- Social life and customs -- 19th century -- Periodicals; Women's periodicals, American
It is in consequence of this lamellar structure that pearl-shells admit
of being split into laminæ for the handles of knives, for counters, and
for inlaying. Splitting, however, is liable to spoil the shell, and is
therefore avoided as much as possible. The different parts of the shell
are selected as near as possible to suit the required purposes, and the
excess of thickness is got rid of at the grindstone. In preparing the
rough pearl-shell, the square and angular pieces are cut out with the
ordinary brass-back saw, and the circular pieces, such as those for
buttons, with the annular or crown-saw, fixed upon a lathe-mandrel. The
pieces are next ground flat upon a wet grindstone, the edge of which is
turned with a number of grooves, the ridges of which are less liable to
be clogged than the entire surface, and hence grind more quickly. If the
stone be wetted with soap and water, it is less liable to be clogged. The
pieces are finished on the flat side of the stone, and are then ready for
inlaying, engraving, polishing, &c. Cylindrical pieces are cut out of the
thick part of the shell, near the hinge, and are rounded on the grindstone
preparatory to being turned in the lathe. Counters, silk-winders, &c.,
are smoothed with Trent sand or pumice-stone and water on a buff-wheel
or hand-polisher, and are finished with rotten-stone moistened with
sulphuric acid, which develops finely the striated structure of the shell.
For inlaid works, the surface is made flat by filing and scraping; then
pumice-stone is used, and after this putty-powder, both on buff-sticks
with water; and the final polish is given with rotten-stone and
sulphuric acid, unless tortoise-shell, or some other substance liable to
be injuriously affected by the acid, be present in the inlay. In turned
works, fine emery-paper, rotten-stone and acid or oil are used. The
pearl handles for razors are slightly riveted together in pairs, then
_scraped_, _sand-buffed_ on the wheel with Trent sand and water; thirdly,
_gloss-buffed_ on the wheel with rotten-stone and oil, or sometimes with
dry chalk rubbed on the same wheel; and fourthly, they are _handed up_, or
polished with dry rotten-stone and the naked hand.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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