Fashion -- 19th century -- Periodicals; United States -- Social life and customs -- 19th century -- Periodicals; Women's periodicals, American
ARTIFICIAL PEARLS.--The art of making artificial pearls has been brought
to such perfection in Paris, that even jewellers and pawnbrokers have
occasionally had a difficulty in deciding between the artificial and
the real. The origin of this successful imitation is given as follows:
A French bead-maker named Jaquin, observing that when the small fish
called _ablette_, or bleak (_Cyprinus alburnus_), was washed, the water
was filled with fine silver-colored particles, collected some of these
for the purposes of his trade. He found that the soft shining powder thus
obtained had, to a remarkable degree, the lustre of pearls; hence, he
called it essence of pearl, or _essence d'orient_. He first made small
beads of gypsum and covered them with this substance; they were greatly
admired and eagerly sought after; but it was found that this pearly coat,
when exposed to heat, separated itself from the bead, and attached itself
to the skin of the wearer in a manner that was anything but pleasant. The
ladies themselves, it is said, suggested to Jaquin the making of hollow
glass beads, and covering the inside with essence of pearl. This he did,
and established a manufacture, of which some idea may be gained by the
following account. Slender tubes of glass are first prepared, called
_girasols_, a term applied to opal, and sometimes to the stone called
cat's-eye, and given to these tubes because the glass is of a peculiar
bluish tint. From these the artist blows minute globules, to the extent of
from two to six thousand per day, not caring to make them all perfectly
regular or free from blemish, because the natural pearls are not so. The
pearl essence is then mixed with a solution of isinglass, and is blown
while hot into each bead by means of a fine glass pipe. The solution is
spread equally over the whole internal surface, by shaking the pearls in
a vessel placed over the table where the workman sits, and to which he
gives motion by his foot. When the varnish is equally diffused and dry,
the beads are filled with white wax; this gives them the necessary weight
and solidity, and renders them less fragile. They are then bored with a
needle, and threaded on strings for sale. The holes in the finer sort are
lined with thin paper, that the thread may not adhere to the wax.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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