Graham's Magazine, Vol. XLI, No. 5, November 1852Various
General
Graham's Magazine, Vol. XLI, No. 5, November 1852
Various
Literature -- Periodicals; Literature, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals
The first operation to be noticed is the spinning of the flax, cotton,
or wool into thread. The material to be spun was first rolled into a
ball and supported on the distaff, a stick of wood or ivory, which
passed through the centre of the ball and was held in the left hand of
the person spinning. The fibres of the raw material were drawn out and
twisted by the finger, and then fixed into the notch or cleft of the
spindle. This was formed of a slender shaft of wood about a foot long,
furnished at one end with a slit to catch the thread, and inserted at
the other end into a circular piece of heavy wood, stone, or metal. The
spindle was kept in constant revolution by the hand of the spinner, and
by its weight drew the fibres out of the ball of raw material. These
fibres were twisted into thread, partly by the fingers and partly by the
whirling of the spindle. When the spindle reached the ground the thread
was wound on its shaft, again fixed in the cleft, and the same process
repeated till the shaft was covered with as much spun thread as it could
carry. The reel thus formed was fixed in a hollow case--the shuttle--so
as to revolve freely within it, and the thread was drawn out through a
small hole in the enclosing case.
The loom consisted of a simple frame-work, oblong in shape, and erected
almost always in a perpendicular position, so that the weaver stood to
perform her task. The warp was arranged in vertical threads between the
upper and lower cross-bars of the frame; and the alternate threads were
separated by a thin stick or cane, so as to form two sets or layers,
between which the threads of the woof were introduced. This passing of
the woof-thread was effected either with or without the shuttle; of
course, always by hand. When the thread of the woof had been passed
between the two layers of the warp, it is plain that these layers must
change places in order firmly to inclose the introduced thread; _i. e._
the anterior layer must become posterior, and _vice versa_. This end was
effected by inclosing each separate thread of the warp in a loop, and
fastening all the loops of each layer to a separate stick, so that the
person weaving could, by drawing one such stick toward her, cause all
the corresponding threads of one layer to start from those of the other
layer. By this means, after passing one thread of the woof, the
posterior layer of the warp was drawn forward so as firmly to inclose
it, and into the space between the layers a new thread of woof was again
introduced. The layers of the warp were, of course, decussated in this
manner on every successive introduction of a thread of the woof. The
woof-thread, when passed, was firmly pressed between the layers of the
warp, either by the comb or by the “spatha,” a large, flat wooden
instrument, much like an enlarged paper-knife. In simple weaving, the
repetition of the process described was all that was requisite to form
the material; and striped patterns were easily produced, merely by
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