Graham's Magazine, Vol. XLI, No. 5, November 1852Various
General
Graham's Magazine, Vol. XLI, No. 5, November 1852
Various
Literature -- Periodicals; Literature, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals
alternately inserting bands of differently-colored woof. A check
resulted when both warp and woof were thus alternately varied in hue.
But to form more complicated patterns, an intricate arrangement of the
leashes, or sets of loops above described, was necessary.
The warp-threads were always firmer and closer in substance than those
of the woof--a necessary consequence of their having to bear the brunt
of the whole operation without breaking, which, of course, was an
inconvenient hindrance. A thick, soft woof was used to produce the nap
required for warm blankets or winter shawls. Any rich material
introduced, as Tyrian purple or golden thread, was always used as woof.
The colors in Greek and Roman fabrics was always wool-dyed. Dimities,
twills, and damasks were all woven by their looms. But the profusion of
tapestries, carpets, shawls, and scarfs, of splendid hues and elaborate
patterns, were all imported from the East--from Persia, Babylonia,
Phœnicia, Egypt, Lydia, and Phrygia; nor were silken fabrics ever a
domestic manufacture in Greece or Rome.
Much might be said, did our space permit, of the fulling and dressing of
woollen cloths after manufacture. The processes employed were very
similar to those in modern use: various kinds of fullers’ earth were
used, and alkaline liquids were employed for cleansing; but soap was not
known to the ancients.
The art of felting is said to be of greater antiquity even than that of
weaving. It was employed among the Greeks and Romans chiefly in the
production of coverings for the head, which were worn by people
traveling. Among the Greeks caps were more common than among the Romans,
who were used to supply their place by drawing a fold of the toga over
their heads.
The coverings for the feet were very various in form: some mere sandals,
in which the sole was fixed to the foot by bands; others resembled our
modern shoes in shape, and covered the foot wholly; whilst a third kind
reached up the leg. The tanning and dyeing of leather employed a great
number of hands, and the colors chosen were often gay.
VII. _Public Architecture._
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