Graham's Magazine, Vol. XLI, No. 5, November 1852Various
General
Graham's Magazine, Vol. XLI, No. 5, November 1852
Various
Literature -- Periodicals; Literature, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals
world to Oregon, and from the queen down to the pauper, is the shawl the
symbol of woman’s taste and condition. Whence come all these shawls? For
it is clear that the supply which arrives from Asia--over bleak
continents and wide oceans--can only be for the rich and great. Some of
the shawls from Bokhara sell, in the market on the Russian frontier, for
two thousand four hundred pounds each. Whence come the hundred thousand
shawls that the women of Great Britain purchase every year?
Some of the richest that our ladies wear are from Lyons; and the French
taste is so highly esteemed, that our principal manufacturers go to
Lyons once or twice a year for specimens and patterns. Some of our
greatest ladies of all, even the queen and certain duchesses and
countesses offer to our chief manufacturers a sight of their treasures
from India, their Cashmeres and other shawls, from a patriotic desire
for the improvement of our English patterns. From these, the
manufacturers of Norwich and Paisley devise such beautiful things that,
but for the unaccountable and unrivaled superiority of the Orientals in
the production of this particular article, we should be all satisfaction
and admiration. The common cotton shawls, continually lessening in
number, worn by women of the working-classes, are made at Manchester,
and wherever the cotton manufacture is instituted. In order to study the
production of British shawls in perfection, one should visit the Norwich
or Paisley manufactures.
If any article of dress could be immutable, it would be the
shawl--designed for eternity in the unchanging East--copied from
patterns which are the heirloom of a caste--and woven by fatalists, to
be worn by adorers of the ancient garment, who resent the idea of the
smallest change. Yet has the day arrived which exhibits the manufacture
of three distinct kinds of shawls in Paisley. There is the genuine woven
shawl with its Asiatic patterns; and there is that which is called a
shawl for convenience, but which has nothing Asiatic about it: the
tartan--which name is given not only to the checks of divers colors
which signify so much to the Scottish eye, but to any kind of mixed or
mottled colors and fabric--woven in squares or lengths to cover the
shoulder. The third kind is quite modern: the showy, slight and elegant
printed shawl, derived from Lyons, and now daily rising in favor. The
woven kind is the oldest in Paisley. The tartan kind was introduced from
Stirlingshire--without injury to Stirlingshire--which makes as many as
ever, but to the great benefit of Paisley. The printed kind has been
made about six years, and it is by far the greatest and most expanding
manufacture. The most devoted worshipers of the genuine shawl can hardly
wonder at this, considering the love of change that is inherent in
ladies who dress well, and the difference of cost. A genuine shawl lasts
a quarter of a lifetime. Ordinary purchasers give from one pound to ten
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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