Graham's Magazine, Vol. XLI, No. 5, November 1852Various
General
Graham's Magazine, Vol. XLI, No. 5, November 1852
Various
Literature -- Periodicals; Literature, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals
The wool is Australian or German--chiefly Australian. It comes in the
form of yarn from Bradford, in hanks which are any thing but white, so
that they have first to be washed. Of the washing, dyeing, and warping
we need not speak, as they are much the same to the observer’s--and
therefore to the reader’s--eye as the preparation of yarns for carpets
in Kendal, and of silk for ribbons in Coventry. While the washing and
drying, and the dyeing and drying again, are proceeding, the higher
labor of preparing the pattern is advancing.
But how much of the lower kind of work can be done during the slow
elaboration of the higher? It really requires some patience and
fortitude even to witness the mighty task of composing and preparing the
pattern of an elaborate shawl. Let the reader study any three square
inches of a good shawl border; let the threads be counted, and the
colors, and the twists and turnings of the pattern, and then let it be
remembered that the general form has to be invented, and the
subdivisions, and the details within each form, and the filling up of
the spaces between, and the colors--as a whole, and in each particular;
and that, before the material can be arranged for the weaving, every
separate stitch (so to speak) must be painted down on paper, in its
right place. Is it not bewildering to think of?--Much more bewildering
and imposing is it to see. As for the first sketch of the design, that
is all very pretty; and, the strain on the faculties not being
cognizable by the stranger, is easy enough.
There goes the artist-pencil--tracing waving lines and elegant forms,
giving no more notion of the operations within than the hands of a clock
do of the complication of the works. Formerly, the employers put two or
three good foreign patterns into the artist’s hands, and said--“Make a
new pattern out of these.” Now that we have schools of design, and more
accessible specimens of art, the direction is given without the
aids--“Make a new pattern,” and the artist sits down with nothing before
him but pencil and paper--unless, indeed, he finds aids for himself in
wild flowers, and other such instructors in beauty of form and color. By
degrees, the different parts of the pattern shape themselves out, and
combine--the centre groups with the ends, and the ends grow out into the
sides with a natural and graceful transition. Then the portions,
properly outlined, are delivered to the colorers, who cover the drawing
with oiled paper, and begin to paint. It would not do to color the
outlined drawing, because there are no outlines in the woven fabric. It
is dazzling only to look upon. Much less minute is the transferring to
the diced paper which is the real working pattern. The separate portions
of the finished pattern of a single shawl, when laid on the floor, would
cover the carpet of a large drawing-room. The taking down such a pattern
upon paper occupies four months.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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