Graham's Magazine, Vol. XLI, No. 5, November 1852Various
General
Graham's Magazine, Vol. XLI, No. 5, November 1852
Various
Literature -- Periodicals; Literature, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals
The weaving is done either by “lashing” or from Jacquard cards. The
Jacquard loom answers for the eternal patterns, and the “lashing” method
suffices for those which are not likely to be repeated. The man seated
at the “piano-machine,” playing on a sort of keys from the colored
pattern stuck up before his eyes, is punching the Jacquard cards, which
are then transferred in their order to the lacing-machine, where they
are strung together by boys into that series which is to operate upon
the warp in the weaving, lifting up the right threads for the shuttle to
pass under to form the pattern, as in other more familiar manufactures.
The “lashing” is read off from the pattern, too, in the same way as with
carpet patterns at Kendal; so many threads being taken up and interlaced
with twine for a red stitch, and then so many more for a green, and so
on. Boys then fasten each symbol of a hue to a netting of whipcord, by
that tail of the netting which, by its knots, signifies that particular
hue; so that, when the weaving comes to be done, the boy, pulling the
symbolic cord, raises the threads of the warp--green, blue, or
other--which are required for that throw of the shuttle. Thus the work
is really all done before-hand, except the mere putting together of the
threads; done, moreover, by any body but the weaver, who is--to say the
truth--a mere shuttle-throwing machine. The poor man does not even see
and know what he is doing. The wrong side of the shawl is uppermost--and
not even such a wrong side as we see, which gives some notion of the
pattern on the other. Previous to cutting, the wrong side of a shawl is
a loose surface of floating threads of all colors; of the threads, in
fact, which are thrown out of the pattern, and destined to be cut away
and given to the papermakers to make coarse gray paper. One pities the
weaver, who sits all day long throwing the shuttle, while the boy at the
end of his loom pulls the cords which make the pattern, and throw up
nothing but refuse to the eye. He has not even the relief of stopping to
roll up what he has done; for a little machine is now attached to his
loom, which saves the necessity of stopping for any such purpose. It is
called “the up-taking motion.” By it a few little cogwheels are set to
turn one another, and, finally, the roller, on which the woven fabric is
wound as finished.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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