Graham's Magazine, Vol. XVIII, No. 6, June 1841Various
General
Graham's Magazine, Vol. XVIII, No. 6, June 1841
Various
Literature -- Periodicals; Literature, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals
The fashion of wearing silk was unknown at Rome, before the beginning of
the empire. The rage for dressing in it was already so great in the time
of Tiberius, that the emperor prohibited the use of it by a positive
law. The Greeks also had a taste for it; and the cloak of _Amphion_ was
certainly of silk, for the historian Philostratus (Ion, Book I.) tells
us that its color changed according to the different ways in which the
light was reflected from it. Pliny gives us to understand that the gold
stuffs of the ancients were not made as those of our time, of a thread
of gold or silver, wrapped around a woof of silk, but that they were
woven of gold deprived of all alloy: knowing this, he speaks of the
manner in which the wife of Claudius dressed herself to attend a
_Naumachia_ or sea fight, in the following terms—“Nos vidimus
Agrippinam—indutam palludamento auro textile, _sine alia materia_.” It
is about fifty years since they extracted, by assaying, more than four
pounds weight of pure gold from some old dresses which the fathers of
the Clementine College, at Rome, discovered in an urn of basalt, buried
in their vineyard. Tarquin, the Elder, was he, among the Roman
Sovereigns who most usually wore dresses of gold.
From the time of Homer the Greeks wore _black_ dresses for mourning.
This bard shews us Thetis wearing, after the death of Patroclus, the
blackest of her dresses. (Iliad, 24.) For many years the same usage
prevailed among the Romans, but it was partly changed under the
emperors, so that when Plutarch wrote, the women in mourning could wear
nothing but white. Besides, we have a proof of it at the obsequies of
Septimius Severus: “The image of this emperor,” Herodian tells us,
“formed of wax, was surrounded on one side by a row of women in _white_,
and on the other by the body of all the senators, clothed in _black_. At
the death of the Empress Plotina,” adds the historian, “her husband
Trajan covered himself with very black habits for the space of nine
days.” The _toga_ necessarily received as many shades of color as the
other garments: but as to the form of this kind of robe it is impossible
to decide. When Dionysius, of Halicarnassus, asserts that the toga
presented the appearance of a semicircle (’ημικυκλος) he did not at all
intend to describe its shape, but only the form which it assumed when
worn upon the body. Strabo asserts that the military cloak with which
the warriors clothed themselves had an oval form; and that among the
Athenians it was often worn by the young people even in time of peace.
The _tunic_, which was the principal part of the under clothing, was not
generally used among the nations of antiquity, except the Greeks and
Romans; all the Cynic philosophers disdained to make use of it. We know
that Augustus put on as many as four tunics in winter. The name of this
great emperor reminds us that it was in his reign, or thereabouts, that
the Romans began to use table-cloths. Montfaucon believes that the
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