The Jackson Hole elk herd is free ranging and migratory. About half of its 15,000 elk winter on the National Elk Refuge. By midsummer, many graze on bunchgrass in high meadows near the Continental Divide, more than 110 kilometers (70 miles) to the north. Moving north in spring, the elk feed on succulent new growth of grasses and forbs in the sagebrush flats. Cow elk, pregnant since last fall, separate from the main herds to linger on calving grounds. Newborn elk hide in sagebrush or aspen cover while the cows feed. Elk tend to feed in the open in morning and evening, retreating to forest shade during the day. All summer they gain weight in preparation for winter. Full grown cows often exceed 230 kilograms (500 pounds). Bulls may stand 1.5 meters (5 feet) at the shoulder and weigh 405 kilograms (900 pounds). After their antlers drop off in March, bulls begin growing a new annual set. Antlers, furry nubbins in May, become velvet covered branches by July. By late August the velvet, which supplied blood and nutrients for rapid antler growth, hangs in tattered shreds as bull elk rub their antlers against flexible saplings. In September, mature bulls polish the velvet from their antlers and join the cows on their summer ranges. Then the dominant bull elk gather harems of 6 to 20 cows. These bulls establish and maintain dominance by displaying massive branched antlers, impressive bugling, chasing off less aggressive bulls, and occasional combat with other males. Fall migratory herds sometimes number 200 or more. Migration begins when the snow reaches a critical depth. It is a special experience to witness this exodus of elk streaming down the valley. Many elk return to winter on the National Elk Refuge and in the Gros Ventre drainage. Supplemental feeding is provided on the refuge to maintain the Jackson Hole herd because some two-thirds of its traditional winter range has been lost to development. The remaining habitat, and the elk hunt permitted by the law that added Jackson Hole to the national park, is cooperatively managed by the National Park Service and other Federal and State agencies to perpetuate and protect the majestic elk of this great herd. Settling the Valley [Illustration: Homesteader’s Cabin.] [Illustration: Washing dishes.]