St. Giles's, from the Lawn Market 263 Portrait of Sir Walter Scott 266 Edinburgh Castle 271 The Canongate Tolbooth 277 Grayfriars Churchyard 292 The Forth Bridge 298 Dunfermline Abbey 300 Northwest Corner of Dunfermline Abbey 303 The Nave--Looking West--Dunfermline Abbey 304 Loch Lomond 306 Loch Lomond 308 Dunstaffnage 312 Tantallon Castle 316 Norham Castle, in the Time of Marmion 321 "_Whatever withdraws us from the power of our senses, whatever makes the past, the distant, or the future predominate over the present, advances us in the dignity of thinking beings.... All travel has its advantages. If the passenger visits better countries he may learn to improve his own, and if fortune carries him to worse he may learn to enjoy it._" DR. JOHNSON. "_There is given, Unto the things of earth which time hath bent, A spirit's feeling; and where he hath leant His hand, but broke his scythe, there is a power And magic in the ruined battlement, For which the palace of the present hour Must yield its pomp, and wait till ages are its dower._" BYRON. "_The charming, friendly English landscape! Is there any in the world like it? To a traveller returning home it looks so kind,--it seems to shake hands with you as you pass through it._" THACKERAY. GRAY DAYS AND GOLD CHAPTER I CLASSIC SHRINES OF ENGLAND