Several days' journey took the caravan into the neighbourhood of Kouka. They had been told that the sheikh's soldiers were a few ragged negroes, armed with spears, who lived upon the plunder of the black Kaffir countries. Greatly to their astonishment, as they approached the town they beheld a body of several thousand cavalry, drawn up in line and extending right and left as far as they could see. As the Arabs approached, a yell was given by the sheikhs people, which rent the air; and a blast being blown from their rude instruments, they moved on to meet Boo-Khaloum and his Arabs. Small bodies kept charging rapidly towards them, to within a few feet of their horses' heads, without checking the speed of their own until the moment of their halting; then they wheeled at their utmost speed with great precision, shaking their spears over their heads, exclaiming, "_Baka_ _baka_!" ("Blessing! blessing!") They quickly, however, surrounded the caravan so as to prevent it moving on, which greatly enraged Boo-Khaloum, but to no purpose, as he was only answered by shrieks of welcome, and spears unpleasantly rattled over the traveller's heads. In a short time, Barca Gana, the sheikh's first general--a negro of noble aspect, clothed in a figured silk _tobe_, mounted on a beautiful Mandara horse--made his appearance, and cleared away those who had pressed upon them, when the party moved on slowly towards the city. Arrived at the gates, Boo-Khaloum, with the English and about a dozen of his followers, alone were allowed to enter. They proceeded along a wide street completely lined with spearmen on foot, with cavalry in front of them, to the door of the sheikh's residence. Here the horsemen were formed up three deep, and the party halted while some of the chief's attendants came out and, after a great many "_Baka's! baka's_!" retired, when others performed the same ceremony. On this, Boo-Khaloum again lost patience, and swore by the pacha's head that he would return to his tents, if he was not immediately admitted. Denham advised him to submit, and Barca Gana, appearing, invited him to dismount. The English were about to do the same, when an officer intimated that the Arab alone was to be admitted. Another half-hour, and the gates were again opened, and the four Englishmen were called for. The strictest etiquette appeared to be kept up at the sheikh's court; but the major and his companions declined doing more in the way of reverence than bending their heads and laying their right-hands on their hearts. They found the sheikh sitting on a carpet, in a small, dark room. He was plainly dressed in a blue _tobe_ of Soudan and a small turban, with armed negroes on either side of him, and weapons hung up on the walls. His personal appearance was prepossessing, and he had an expressive countenance and a benevolent smile.