Greek Lands and LettersAllinson, Anne C. E. (Anne Crosby Emery)
History
Greek Lands and Letters
Allinson, Anne C. E. (Anne Crosby Emery)
Greece -- Description and travel; Greek literature -- History and criticism
The most casual survey of this protected haven will justify the sagacity
of Themistocles in concentrating his energy upon Piræus. His proposition
to transfer Athens altogether to the seaport was strategically wise. The
extent of the Long Walls, uniting the two into a double city, was a
source of weakness, as it drained the defenders away from both towns.
But it was a true instinct of the Athenians, which posterity endorses,
to cling to the sentiments evoked by their ancient city and in it to
develop to the full their intellectual empire.
It is probable that the extant traces of the ship-sheds in the two
war-harbours date back only as far as the fourth century B. C., but the
number and size fairly represent the older Periclean constructions. The
Thirty Tyrants destroyed the former ship-sheds, as Isocrates tells us,
and sold for three talents (about $3100) the material of these buildings
upon which the city had spent more than one thousand talents.
The ruins of the “Wall of Conon” can still be traced for some distance
to the east after leaving the harbour of Zea, and at the southeastern
promontory the ruins of ancient fortifications are again to be seen. The
harbour of Munychia (modern _Phanari_) is smaller than that of Zea. Its
contour is so perfect an oval as to seem artificial. It had space to
accommodate only eighty-two triremes in ship-houses, scanty remains of
which are here visible under the water.
At the east side the ruined wall may again be traced to the Bay of
Phalērum or (Greek) Phàleron, and beyond, curving around the Munychia
acropolis to complete the circuit to the north of the town.
Further east, on the open bay of Phaleron, is New Phaleron, a bathing
resort as frankly modern as the Lido at Venice. The exact site of Old
Phaleron is open to dispute, but the walk between it and Athens was a
favourite constitutional in Plato’s time. Many a classic conversation
was held here on the way. In the “Symposium” of Plato, Glaucon asks
Apollodorus: “Isn’t the road to Athens just made for conversation?” Now
the banality and the bareness of the city’s outskirts intrude sadly upon
the pedestrian’s philosophic equipoise, both here and on the other road
between Athens and Piræus where Lucian and his friend, in the second
century of our era, could still find shelter from the hot sun under some
olive trees by the wayside and “sit down to rest upon an overturned
stelé.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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