Greek Lands and LettersAllinson, Anne C. E. (Anne Crosby Emery)
History
Greek Lands and Letters
Allinson, Anne C. E. (Anne Crosby Emery)
Greece -- Description and travel; Greek literature -- History and criticism
If any work of man’s hands can purge the mind of the commonplace, it is
the Propylæa, imposing in its grand proportions, yet enticing by its
beauty. Through this the pilgrim now passes and is alone with Greek
life. Although the plateau is deserted, the temple in ruins, there is no
sense of death. There is rather a sudden sense of Beauty set free from
the trammels of daily life. The fortunate isolation of the hilltop
contributes to this effect. Byzantine makeshifts, Turkish hovels and
minarets, have all been swept away—even the intruding Roman is left
outside with the disfiguring pedestal of Agrippa’s statue. The
foreground of the modern city is sunk out of sight behind the rim of the
plateau. There is to be seen on all sides only the same Attic plain, the
same Ægean sea, and the same horizon of mountains, which the eyes of
kings and democrats, artists, orators and philosophers have looked upon
in days gone by.
In this harmony of surroundings, the eye and thought rest undisturbed
upon the Parthenon. The tributes of the centuries have probably left the
visitor unprepared for his own emotion. Like a wind on the mountain,
felling the strong oak trees, the heavenly Eros, Plato’s Love of Beauty,
descends upon him. Bayard Taylor’s first impressions, in spite of an
enthusiasm permissible fifty years ago but now well-nigh out of print,
are worth recalling for the sake of a figure evoked by the appalling
ruin of beauty. Beyond a sea “of hewn and sculptured marble, drums of
pillars, pedestals, capitals, cornices, friezes, triglyphs and sunken
panel-work,” he saw the Parthenon against the sky, and it seemed to him
as if it lay “broken down to the earth in the middle like a ship which
has struck and parted, with the roof, cornices and friezes mostly gone
and not a single column unmutilated, and yet with the tawny gold of two
thousand years staining its once spotless marble, sparkling with
snow-white marks of shot and shell, and with its soaring pillars
embedded in the dark blue ether.”
But since Morosini’s sacrilegious bomb did its work the generations have
refused to accept as the ultimate fact the shipwreck of this temple in
which culminated the plastic arts of ancient Greece and in which were
typified her loftiest ideas. Poet and philosopher have sat before it in
fruitful meditation, and commoners have paced its great colonnades,
unregardful of the ways and marts of men amid the austere majesty and
royal repose of the Doric pillars.
From the imperious beauty of the Parthenon the eye turns gratefully to
the lovely Erechtheum. Although this is but a torso of the architect’s
design and its complex structure defies preconceived conventions, its
Ionic charm satisfies in each detail. The eastern columns, the Porch of
the Maidens, the exquisite tracery of the doorway set within the
perfectly proportioned northern porch present a series rather than a
unity of graceful designs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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