Besides the cock-pit, the gaming-table, and the _Alameda_, which is the popular promenade for the wealthy and the indolent, one of the most favorite pastimes of the females generally is shopping; and the most fashionable time for this is by candle-light, after they have partaken of their chocolate and their _cigarritos_. The streets and shops are literally filled from dusk till nine or ten o'clock; and many a time have I seen the counter of a store actually lined till a late hour, with the fairest and most fashionable señoritas of the city. On such occasions it is not a little painful as well as troublesome to be compelled to keep a strict eye to the rights of property, not that the dealers are all dishonest, but because there never fail to be some present who are painfully afflicted with the self-appropriating mania, {121} even among the fairest-looking señoritas. This, with other purposes no less culpable, has no doubt tended to establish the custom of night-shopping. It may already be generally known perhaps, that the predominant party, in Mexico, (and particularly in the North), is decidedly anti-masonic. During my stay in Chihuahua I had an opportunity to test their antipathy for that mysterious brotherhood. This was evinced in the seizure of a dozen or two cotton handkerchiefs, which, unknown to myself, happened to bear the stamp of the 'masonic carpet.' These obnoxious articles having attracted the attention of some lynx-eyed friars, one day, much to my consternation, my store was suddenly invaded by the alcalde and some ecclesiastics. The handkerchiefs were seized without ceremony, and by an _auto de fe_, condemned to be publicly burned. CHAPTER XXIII {VII} Departure for Santa Fé -- Straitened for Food -- Summary Effort to procure Beef -- Seizure of one of our Party -- Altercation with a _Rico_ -- His pusillanimous Procedure -- Great Preparations in Chihuahua for our Arrest -- Arrival of Mexican Troops -- A polite Officer -- Myself with three of my Men summoned back to Chihuahua -- Amiable Conduct of Señor Artalejo -- _Junta Departmental_ and Discussion of my Affair -- Writ of _Habeas Corpus_ not in vogue -- The Matter adjusted and Passport granted -- The _Morale_ -- Impunity of savage Depredators -- Final Start -- Company of _Paseños_ with their Fruits and Liquors -- Arrival at Santa Fé. Having closed all my affairs in Chihuahua, and completed my preparations for departing, I took my leave of that city for the North, on the 31st of October, 1839. I was accompanied by a caravan consisting of twenty-two wagons (all of which save one belonged to me), and forty odd men, armed to the teeth, and prepared for any emergency we might be destined to encounter: a precaution altogether necessary, in view of the hordes of hostile savages which at all times infested the route before us.