Ponds and Buffalo Wallows -- Valley of the Canadian, and romantic Freaks of Nature -- Formation of Ravines -- Melancholy Adventure of a Party of Traders in 1832 -- Fears of our being lost -- Arrival of a Party of _Comancheros_, and their wonderful Stories -- Their Peculiarities and Traffic -- Bitter Water, and the _Salitre_ of New Mexico -- Avant-couriers for Santa Fé -- Patent Fire-arms and their Virtues -- Ranchero Ideas of Distance, and their Mode of giving Directions -- The Angostura, and erroneous Notions of the Texans -- A new Route revealed -- Solitary Travel -- Supply of Provisions sent back -- Arrival at Santa Fé -- Gov. Armijo, etc. -- A 'Flare-up' with His Excellency, 132 CHAPTER XX {IV of Vol. II} Preparations for a Start to Chihuahua -- Ineptness of Married Men for the Santa Fé Trade -- Annoying Custom-house Regulations -- Mails in New Mexico -- Insecurity of Correspondence -- Outfit and Departure -- _Derecho de Consumo_ -- Ruins of Valverde -- 'Towns without Houses' -- La Jornado del Muerto -- Laguna and Ojo del Muerto -- A Tradition of the _Arrieros_ -- Laborious Ferrying and Quagmires -- Arrival at Paso del Norte -- Amenity of the Valley -- _Sierra Blanca_ and _Los Organos_ -- Face of the Country -- Seagrass -- Médanos or Sand-hills -- An accidental River -- Carrizal -- Ojo Caliente -- Laguna de Encinillas -- Southern Haciendas -- Arrival -- Character of the Route and Soil, 145 CHAPTER XXI {V of Vol. II} Trip from Chihuahua to Aguascalientes, in 1835 -- Southern Trade and _Ferias_ -- Hacienda de la Zarca, and its innumerable Stock -- Rio Nazas, and Lakes without outlet -- Perennial Cotton -- Exactions for Water and Pasturage -- Village of Churches -- City of Durango and its Peculiarities -- Fruits, Pulque, etc. -- Persecution of Scorpions -- Negro-ship in the ascendant -- Robbers and their _modus operandi_ -- City of Aguascalientes -- Bathing Scene -- Haste to return to the North -- Mexican Mule-shoeing -- Difficulties and Perplexities -- A Friend in time of need -- Reach Zacatecas -- City Accommodations -- Hotels unfashionable -- _Locale_, Fortifications, etc., of the City of Zacatecas -- Siege by Santa Anna and his easy-won Victory -- At Durango again -- Civil Warfare among the 'Sovereigns' -- Hairbreadth 'scapes -- Troubles of the Road -- Safe Arrival at Chihuahua -- Character of the Southern Country, 162 CHAPTER XXII {VI of Vol. II}