SIR JOHN HAWKWOOD, THE HEROIC TAILOR 261 GEORGE DÖRFLING, THE MARTIAL TAILOR 275 ADMIRAL HOBSON, THE NAVAL TAILOR 283 JOHN STOW, THE ANTIQUARIAN TAILOR 285 JOHN SPEED, THE ANTIQUARIAN TAILOR 296 SAMUEL PEPYS, THE OFFICIAL TAILOR 300 RICHARD RYAN, THE THEATRICAL TAILOR 309 PAUL WHITEHEAD, THE POET TAILOR 315 MEMS. OF “MERCHANT TAILORS” 322 CHAPTERS ON BEAUX 337 THE BEAUX OF THE OLDEN TIME 337 BEAU FIELDING 347 BEAU NASH 356 THE PRINCE DE LIGNE 370 BEAU BRUMMELL 378 DOCTORS READY DRESSED 395 ODD FASHIONS 402 BETWEEN YOU AND ME. “Here, Sir, you’ll find, by way of prologue, A choice imbroglio. Philosophy Gay in her gravity; and Poesy Casting her spangles on the theme of dress. Lik’st thou’t not, no merry Christmas to thee!” OLD PLAY. It is remarked by Mr. T. C. Grattan, in his ‘Jacqueline of Holland,’ that the “suitableness of raiment and the becomingness of manners are links in the chain of social life, which harmonize with and beautify the whole. There is infinitely more wisdom,” he adds “in submitting to than in spurning those necessary concomitants of civilization, which, being artificial throughout, require the cement of elegance and refinement to polish, if it cannot lighten, the chain.” I offer this pinch of philosophy to those who like to be tempted by something didactic. I would not, for the world, however, have them believe that I shall repeat the temptation, or follow the example, in my illustrations of ‘Habits and Men.’ And when I say “Men,” I would imply _man_ in its general sense,—a sense in which “woman” has the better and more perfect half; for, as the poet sings of Nature,— “Her ’prentice han’ She tried on man, An’ then she made the lasses, oh!” The latter, consequently, will come in for their share in these trivial, fond records. For, have not the poets loved especially to dress and undress them? And have not the nymphs been consenting? None have defied them, save “Fair Rhodope, as story tells, The bright, unearthly nymph who dwells ’Mid sunless gold and jewels hid, The Lady of the Pyramid.” Rhodope has been a snare to the versifiers; but I recognize in her a lady who loved home, and dressed as well when there as her more gadding sisters do only when abroad.