Habits and men, with remnants of record touching the makers of bothDoran, Dr. (John)
Philosophy
Habits and men, with remnants of record touching the makers of both
Doran, Dr. (John)
Manners and customs
The Scandinavian _beaux_ were as fantastically nice in some of _their_
fashions. Rough as they were, there were many who wasted some amount
of thought on the adornment of their persons. Such an individual was
the pride of his relatives, and by these he was called, not the flower,
but the _leek_ of the family: he generally smelt a good deal stronger.
Of such a dandy, his kindred were as proud as the “blood” of Caffarelli
was of that smartly-dressed singer. But Caffarelli was a vocal beau who
sang to some tune. He lived in a palace of his own building. Over the
gate was this inscription:—“Amphion Thebas, ego domum;” and he purchased
for his nephew and heir the Dukedom of Sante Dorato. That _was_ a
well-dressed uncle, of whom his nephew might well be—what he was not, of
course—gratefully proud. Scandinavia reminds me of the great Gustavus
Adolphus. He was not indeed himself a _beau_, but he was the first who
made modern soldiers such. It was a consequence of his insisting on the
necessity of the men being well clothed, and kept clean and warm. Except
among Pompey’s cohort, this was not the custom of the ancients, with
whom prevailed the maxim, “horridum militem esse decet.” So too thought
Tilly, whose doctrine on the matter was comprised in the phrase, “A
ragged soldier and a bright musket.” Some of Gustavus’s officers became
the tightest-laced “exquisites” of suffering humanity, and reduced
their outward surface to such a degree, that, had they lived in remoter
times, they might have passed for those unhappy persons who had entered
the temple of Jupiter in Arcadia, despite prohibition. The well-known
consequence of such an act was, that the offender became for ever
shadowless.
There is a race of men, not at all thin, and as rich dressers as
Gustavus’s captains; I mean the Cardinals. There is a _reason_ for their
wearing red garments. Persons of early Church days used to draw Christian
zodiacs and solar systems. In the former, the saints took the place of
the old signs. In the latter, the planets were allotted to different
religions. The sun belongs to Christianity; _ergo_, _Sunday_ is the
sabbath. Rome is the solar, and therefore the holy city; and accordingly
the Cardinals wear red, because it is the colour of the sun.
To revert once more to the pupil of Aristotle, there remains but to be
said that it was only on state occasions that he appeared in the mantle,
sandals, and horns of Ammon. His ordinary dress was a chlamys of purple,
a striped tunic (white on a coloured ground), and a wide-flapped hat or
cap, with the royal diadem girt around it. He was in fact King of Fashion
as well as King of Men; and, like Count D’Orsay, he not only patronized
tailors, but, unlike the Count, paid their bills. The two men, in all
other respects, were very different; and it cannot be said of them, as
of Mr. Hunt’s ‘Light of the World,’ and his fast man in the ‘Awakened
Conscience,’ that they are one and the same person in two costumes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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