Habits and men, with remnants of record touching the makers of bothDoran, Dr. (John)
Philosophy
Habits and men, with remnants of record touching the makers of both
Doran, Dr. (John)
Manners and customs
The foreign knights and visitors who came to Windsor in Edward the
First’s reign, and brought with them a continual succession of varying
fashions, turned the heads of the young with delight, and of the old with
disgust. Douglas, the monk of Glastonbury, is especially denunciative
and satirical on this point. He says that in the horrible variety of
costume,—“now long, now large, now wide, now straight,”—the style of
dress was “destitute and devert from all honesty of old arraye or good
usage.” It is all, he says, “so nagged and knibbed on every side, and all
so shattered and also buttoned, that I with truth shall say, they seem
more like to tormentors or devils in their clothing, and also in their
shoying and other array, than they seemed to be like men.” And the old
monk had good foundation for his complaint; and the Commons themselves
having, what the Commons now have not, a dread of becoming as extravagant
as their betters in the article of dress, actually sought the aid of
Parliament. That august assembly met the complaint by restricting the
use of furs and furls to the royal family and nobles worth one thousand
_per annum_. Knights and ladies worth four hundred marks yearly, were
permitted to deck themselves in cloths of gold and silver, and to wear
certain jewellery. Poor knights, squires, and damsels were prohibited
from appearing in the costume of those of higher degree. As for the
Commons themselves, they could put on nothing better than unadorned
woollen cloth; and if an apprentice or a milliner had been bold enough
to wear a ring on the finger, it was in peril of a decree that it should
be taken off,—not the finger, but the ring,—with confiscation of the
forbidden finery.
The consequence was that the Commons, being under prohibition to put on
finery, became smitten with a strong desire to assume it; and much did
they rejoice when they were ruled over by so consummate a fop as Richard
of Bordeaux. All classes were content to do what many classes joyfully do
in our own days,—dress beyond their means; and we find in old Harding’s
‘Chronicle’ that not only were
“Yemen and gromes in cloth of silk arrayed,
Sattin and damask, in doublettes and in gownnes,”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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