Habits and men, with remnants of record touching the makers of bothDoran, Dr. (John)
Philosophy
Habits and men, with remnants of record touching the makers of both
Doran, Dr. (John)
Manners and customs
This reminds me of a foolish interference of Louis XVI. in a matter of
dress. In the days of our grandfathers there was nothing so fashionable
for summer wear as nankeen. No gentleman would be seen abroad or at home
in a dress of which this material did not go to the making of a portion;
and as we ever fixed the fashion on questions of male costume, the mode
was adopted in France, and English nankeens threatened to drive all
French manufactured articles of summer wear out of the market. The king
however surmounted the difficulty: he ordered all the executioners and
their assistants to perform their terrible office in no other dress but
one of nankeen. This rendered the material “infamous;” and many a man
who deserved to be hanged, discarded the suit because a similar one was
worn by the man who did the hanging. So Mrs. Turner, the poisoner, being
executed in the reign of James I. in a yellow starched ruff, put to death
the fashion of wearing them.
Picturesqueness of costume went out with chivalry; and few things could
be uglier than an Englishman of James the Second’s or of William and
Mary’s days, except an Englishman of our own tight and buttoned period.
A hundred years ago it would have been unsafe to have sold a plaid
waistcoat in either Rag Fair or Houndsditch. In 1752 Mr. Thornton said
in the House of Commons, that “he believed it true, plaid waistcoats had
been worn by some wrong heads in the country; but in the parts where he
lived he saw no occasion for an army to correct them” (he was speaking
against a standing army), “for some that had attempted to wear them had
been heartily thrashed for doing so.” In the same year it is worthy of
remark that we were exporting gold and silver bullion to the Continent;
not indeed at the rate at which we are now importing it, especially
the former, but still in quantities that seem almost incredible. The
metal-import question as it stood then excites a smile in those who
read it now. For example, among the current news given by our juvenile
friend, Sylvanus Urban, in his volume for 1752, we learn that “a parcel
of waistcoats embroidered with foreign gold and silver (which were lately
seized at a tailor’s house, who must pay the penalty of £100, pursuant to
Act of Parliament), were publicly burnt in presence of the custom-house
officers and others.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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