England -- Antiquities, Roman; Hadrian's Wall (England); Walls, Roman -- England
The sun had risen, and though the houses hid it, rosy clouds that
faced me proclaimed its presence as I turned eastwards.
Along Collingwood Street I went, across Pilgrim Street, then under
the railway-arch which crosses City Road; and there, on my right,
were the ruins of the old Sallyport gateway, which stand near--if not
on--the line of the wall.
Then past "St. Dominic's Priory," with its modern buildings and
prosaic brass-plate, to Byker Bridge, over the valley of the
Ouseburn, which appears to be all valley and very little burn. At
first I searched {40} in vain for any sign of water; I saw only a
valley full of rubbish. And the stony bed of the little stream
contained even more broken crockery than stones.
Byker Hill followed, lined with small shops. I sighed as I
remembered what it had looked like in the eighteenth century. For
before "industrial necessities" claimed it (as shown in Dr. Bruce's
third edition) it was a country road with a picturesque windmill on
the hill, a large piece of Wall still standing, and a beautiful view
of the city and the Tower of St. Nicholas' Church (now the Cathedral)
in the distance!
Turning to the left along Shields Road, I was amused to see an old
woman, in dirty apron and grey shawl, going round knocking at much
be-curtained windows on the ground floor with a small hammer:
"Lizzie, it's well-nigh six o'clock"; "Mary, it's time ye riz;" and
so on, at house after house. It was my first sight of a "knocker-up."
The misty valley of the Tyne began to show on my right, with clusters
of chimneys peering through the mist. I thought Shields Road would
never end; but it brought me to Wallsend at last. There I turned to
the right, and lighted at once on Hadrian Street! And, spying an
"inscribed stone" on a building opposite, I crossed over, and this is
what I read:
{41}
"The Eastern Gateway of
the Roman Camp of
SEGEDUNUM
stood about twenty yards
to the south of this spot
and remains of it were found
when this house was built
Anno Domini 1912."
The building is Simpson's Hotel, Wallsend. And so I really had
reached the Wall's End (although for me it was the Wall's Beginning)
in the midst of a wilderness of houses.
There are drawings in Newcastle which show the south-east angle of
Segedunum in 1848, with grassy banks, and trees, and a peaceful
river, and not a house to be seen.
I wandered down towards the Tyne now, to get an idea of where that
south-east angle must have been, but it seemed hopeless, with
buildings crowded thickly together as they are. There should be a
stone to mark the site, but I did not find it. The Wall ran down
from this corner right into the river, just as it did at the other
end, into the Solway, at Bowness, to cut off the passage of an enemy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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