England -- Antiquities, Roman; Hadrian's Wall (England); Walls, Roman -- England
They took me through the garden, and then through a plantation, to
see the "Giant's Grave," a trough cut out of the solid rock, 12 feet
long, 4½ feet wide, and 2 feet deep; and the housekeeper held stoutly
to the opinion that its original purpose had been the brewing of
beer. "Giant's Grave, indeed!" said she; "better call it the Giant's
Bath!"
Before leaving, I traced the general outlines of the fort. With its
southern gateway and ramparts, {56} it can be easily made out,
between the farm-buildings and the road, the road itself probably
representing its _via principalis_. The house, farm-buildings and
field-fences are mostly built of stones from the Wall and fort. A
mediæval pele-tower was the nucleus of the present house.
I took my leave of Rudchester much refreshed, and grateful that my
experience had been the exact opposite of old Hutton's, for this is
the verse with which he commemorates his visit:
"I saw old Sir at dinner sit,
Who ne'er said, 'Stranger, take a bit,'
Yet might, although a Poet said it,
Have sav'd his beef, and rais'd his credit."
The site of another mile-castle is recognizable by the gate into a
field a little farther on; and then comes "The Iron Sign," once an
inn, with Roman-inscribed stones built into the front. The old lady
who lived here had recently been killed by a passing motor-car, while
crossing the road, so I was told.
Harlow Hill then came into sight, and glad I was to see it, for I
hoped to spend the night there. It was Hutton's first stage from
Newcastle. I had written to the Temperance Hotel there (mentioned by
Dr. Bruce), asking if I could have a bed, and enclosing a post-card
for reply; and although I had received no answer, at least I had not
had an unfavourable one.
The Wall-ditch showed very clearly ahead, running {57} up to Harlow
Hill, on the right of the road; and the Vallum, diverging from the
road, could be seen on the left.
Arrived at the village, I inquired at once for the Temperance Hotel,
only to be told I was several years too late! It had been closed
during the war. A day or two later I received my post-card, which
had been pursuing me. It bore no signature, and only this sad
legend: "No temperance at Harlow Hill."
The hotel, where Hutton had spent one night, was still there, a
substantial stone building, but it was now occupied by a private
family. I made inquiries from end to end of the village street, but
no one could give me a bed, so I found I must walk on a mile or so
farther to the next Inn, the "Robin Hood."
Passing the Whittledene Reservoirs, I noticed the houses of Welton
(Wall-town), and turned aside to the south for half a mile, to try my
chance there.
The road runs along the very brink of the reservoir. Several anglers
were seated on the steep banks, very much preoccupied, and their cars
were waiting for them in the road.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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