England -- Antiquities, Roman; Hadrian's Wall (England); Walls, Roman -- England
The picturesque Halton Tower, which lies immediately {64} to the
south of the fort, is the one remaining tower of the
thirteenth-century castle, built of Roman stones from the Wall and
the fort. The present owner is evidently a great lover of flowers.
There are beautiful rock gardens (with a Roman altar among the rocks)
and masses of rock cistus of every colour, especially a rich rose
colour which was new to me.
Regaining the road and continuing westward, I soon crossed a lovely
little ravine, with a stream flowing along the bottom, and
beech-trees arching overhead. Its steep sides were decked with
primroses and other flowers of spring.
A little farther on there is an interesting landmark; it is the site
of the Portgate, the gateway through the Wall at the point where the
famous Roman road running north crossed the line of the defensive
barrier. This road used to be called "Watling Street," a name which
was arbitrarily and mistakenly conferred on the entire length of
Roman road from London to Scotland by archæologists of the eighteenth
century. The mediæval and Saxon name was "Dere Street," and this
name is correctly given to it for the first time in the 1921-22
edition of the Ordnance Survey.
William of Malmesbury, writing about 1140 A.D., refers to the
Portgate, "where there stood a gate in the Wall, as may appeare by
the word, that in both languages importeth as much."
{65}
A small Inn, the Errington Arms, stands on Dere Street, close to the
site of the Portgate. I called here to ask for a glass of milk.
There was no one to be seen inside but a postman, who had evidently
completed his delivery of letters for the day, and was reclining on
the long low window-seat, in a Panama hat and carpet slippers,
reading a newspaper, with a glass by his side. I knocked on the
table, and a barmaid appeared, who brought my milk, but I found I had
no change left, so I was diving into my haversack for a note to
change. Meantime the postman had settled his account, and the
barmaid had disappeared.
While I drank my milk, the postman talked very pleasantly about the
state of the roads, and the weather, and the coal-strike; but when I
knocked on the table to summon the barmaid again, he said quietly:
"You needn't do that; I told her to take it out of mine, as you
hadn't any change." This was my first experience of being "treated"
in a public-house! But the way in which it was done only made me
feel that it was another proof of the comradeship of the road. So I
thanked him, and went on my way rejoicing.
Soon after this I heard and saw my first curlew, a sure sign that I
was nearing the moorland; and these beautiful birds, with their sweet
whistling note, were my constant companions from this point for many
miles onward.
{66}
And now I came to a point where both Wallditch and Vallum surpassed
themselves in grandeur. Hutton writes with enthusiasm of the Vallum,
and is quite poetic in his fervour:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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