England -- Antiquities, Roman; Hadrian's Wall (England); Walls, Roman -- England
After striking off from the western gateway of Cilurnum, the Wall
appears once again in the grounds of Chesters, several courses high,
and is then just traceable through the plantation to the west of the
house till we come out on to the road leading to Walwick. Here the
Vallum is clearly visible in a field on the left. The foundations of
the Wall could long be seen in the road on the rise of the hill
towards Walwick, but I doubt if they can often be seen now. "A good
surface for cars" is made so that it does not easily wash off, even
in thunder-showers!
I did not see them myself; but I have since been told that, though
the north face is very seldom seen, the south facing-stones can be
made out just at the south edge of the road, unless too much covered
by the wayside grass. With this hint, my readers may be more
successful than I was in finding them. Hutton says of Walwick: "The
village is delightful, and the prospect most charming," and this is
as true to-day as it was when he wrote it. From the {101} top of the
hill, Hexham, with its towers, the valleys of the Tyne, and a fine
wooded country with hills beyond are spread out before you.
Presently the Wall-ditch appears in good condition on the right of
the road. Nearly opposite the road on the left leading to Fourstones
is a cottage, built entirely of stones from the Wall. It presents a
very solid rectangular eastern face, from which four battlements
project, and it is known as "Tower Taye." A bit of wall running
behind it looked in the distance like _the_ Wall, so I went to
examine it. As I drew near the house, which lies in a field a little
way back from the road, I noticed that the gate into the yard was
merely the head of an old iron bedstead, originally painted green.
One castor remained--on the loose leg; the other leg was tied, at top
and bottom, to the wooden gate-post, and its foot sunk deep into the
soil. It made a decidedly original gate! A huge sow, with a litter
of young ones, had flung herself down in front of this gate, as
though to act as a watch-dog. A large tin basin, full of dirty
soap-suds, stood in the middle of the path to the front door, which
was a heavy oaken one, thickly studded with nails. Altogether the
place struck me as being a very well-defended Tower!
The wall behind was not _the_ Wall, so I came away. As I emerged on
to the road, a young man was passing in a light cart. He pulled up
and asked if I was going far. I said I was following the Roman {102}
Wall. "Well, I could have given you a lift. It's not much of a
trap; I only bought it yesterday at a fair, and one of the wheels is
a bit shaky, but I don't think it will come off." I should not have
minded the rickety cart, but "lifts" were not in my line just now; so
I thanked him, saying I was pledged to walk, and he drove on.
Shortly afterwards two caravan-carts passed. One was covered at the
back with red-brown tarpaulin, from under which a fat brown baby
could be seen, lying asleep.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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