England -- Antiquities, Roman; Hadrian's Wall (England); Walls, Roman -- England
Miss B----, the daughter, who answered my knock, insisted on taking
me into the parlour to eat my lunch, and when she had fetched some
milk, she sat and talked to me. She told me of their experiences
during the war, how they had had refugee Belgians close to them, at
Howgill--relays of Belgians, some quite nice, and others "a rough
lot." These last used to catch and eat the blackbirds, besides
sucking their eggs, and had made quite a stir in this quiet
neighbourhood.
My lunch finished, she took me back to the living-room, and
introduced me to her mother, a dear old lady of ninety-one. When I
told her I was walking to Bowness, she at once began to recall a
visit she had paid eighty years ago, when she had gone to stay at
Peartree House, Bowness, on account of her health. She made the
journey by canal, from Carlisle to Port Carlisle, and had evidently
enjoyed the whole experience. This canal was only open from 1823 to
1854.
When I got up to go, Miss B---- popped on her sunbonnet and came with
me. She showed me where a mile-castle had been excavated, in 1900,
in one of their fields, north of the house.
In the field north of Dovecote, I thought I saw traces of a turret,
but I could not be sure.
{182}
The core of the Wall is now clearly to be seen, all the way to the
King Water, but both Wall and ditch disappeared in a field of young
corn which slopes down to the water's edge.
The King Water flows from north to south at this point, right across
the line of the Wall. As is so often the case with northern rivers,
it has a very steep bank on one side, while the ground slopes gently
down on the other. There is nothing to show how the Wall was carried
across this stream, but I found it very easily fordable, by
stepping-stones just where the Wall must have been. On this May day,
the steep western bank was a riot of colour. The colour of the earth
of the bank is red, almost pink, from the red sandstone; on it was
growing a perfect blaze of yellow broom. With a deep blue sky
overhead, and the fresh green of the grass and trees, the whole
colour-scheme was very much inclined to be garish--not to say
"Futurist"--in character!
I crossed the stream, and climbed the red bank, threading my way
between the bushes of broom, from which the bees were raising a
continuous drone. It was easy to pick up the Wall again on the top
of the cliff; a great ash was growing just on the Wall, at the
cliff's edge. On the right at this point a little stream runs into
the King Water, forming a natural Wall-ditch. Broom and blue-bells
made a harmony of blue and gold in its narrow gorge.
{183}
I found it better now to descend into the road, which runs on the
left close by, keeping parallel to the Wall. It soon brought me into
the village of Walton (Wall-town), a pretty village, with delightful
views of the valley of the Irthing and of the Lake-mountains.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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