“Yes, dear reader, whenever I let these verses and their splendid truth
vibrate again in my soul—and how often and how gladly I do it!—I have to
say, Such days thou shalt never know again—such happy entrance into
another’s heart. And what a heart it was that bared itself to me with
all it hid and would soon reveal! We were in a café at Naples, a copy of
the _Allgemeine Zeitung_ lying between him and me. It was in the best
part of the spring of 1859. We both reached for it, and told our names,
and the friendship was begun. ‘You must excuse me,’ Haeckel said, ‘I
have to go to Ischia to-night by the market-boat.’ ‘To Ischia? That’s
good: I am going there myself. ‘I am very glad, because I heard I was to
be alone. It starts at nine o’clock.’ That was all that had passed
between us before the crossing. What I have described in the above
verses only began when we, the only Germans on board, made ourselves
comfortable on the open deck. Before the journey was over we were
intimate friends, and have remained friends in joy and sorrow to this
moment, though the mental differences between us are enormous. However,
Casamicciola brought us together in a wonderful way. We had common
quarters, and always went out together for walks or botanising; we were
never separated when we painted or drew, as Haeckel did with real
passion. On the third morning, when we found some rare thermal plants in
an almost broiling meadow and discovered nearly at the same spot the
ruins of an ancient Roman bath, the remarkable coincidence affected us
so much that we embraced each other joyously and dedicated the rest of
our flask to them. We both felt that we could not do otherwise. So we
pleasantly enjoyed the magnificent scene that lay at our feet from the
height of Epomeo. We stripped off nearly the whole of our clothes, and
dipped, in almost primitive nakedness, in the warm muddy streams that
shot up out of the dark depths under a growth of tendrils and ferns. We
shouted out, ‘How fine it is in these warm and beautifully shaded
brooks! How delightful it must be in the ravines of Atlas! We must go
there.’ We spent more than a whole day in the most marvellous ravines of
Atlas, though neither of us had the least idea of them. But we
determined to make the journey there, and sketched it out in detail, to
be undertaken as soon as we left Italy. He contracted a perfect fever
for travelling. We were four weeks in Pagano’s excellent inn at Capri
with a few artists, and he completely lost himself with delight. He
became intimate with the young artists; being hitherto surrounded by men
of scientific interests, he had avoided them. The intermediary between
Haeckel and them was myself. I liked no one better than genial artists.
Now Haeckel was seized with a passion for painting landscapes day after
day. He was especially interested in the most fantastically shaped
rocks. On the other hand, he neglected his marine animals, and did not
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