Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
The wave of civilization is, however, rapidly encroaching upon these
humbler classes. It is only natural that a girl brought up in this way
should endeavour to introduce innovations into her husband's home.
Within the last few years there has been a marked change in this
respect, particularly in a town like Haifa, where the Christian
population largely predominates. A veiled face is rarely to be seen,
while women, even of the poorer classes, are introducing the fashion of
wearing gowns, adding a table and a few chairs to their domestic
furniture, and have even gone the length of sleeping on bedsteads,
though I have not yet pried sufficiently into nocturnal mysteries to
know whether, when they go to bed, they have progressed in civilization
so far as to undress.
FISHING ON LAKE TIBERIAS.
Haifa, April 2.—I have just returned from a trip into the interior,
during which I have been exploring some new and interesting country.
Instead of following the usual road to the eastward by way of the valley
of Esdraelon, I struck in a northeasterly direction across the fertile
plain of Acre, fording the Kishon at the point of its debouchure into
the sea, where, after the winter rains, we are generally obliged to swim
the horses, while we cross ourselves in a ferry-boat. In two hours from
this point we strike the first low range of the Galilee hills, at a
depression from which, in the times of the crusaders, the armies of
Saladin used to issue forth to give them battle. Indeed, the whole
ground over which we ride has been from time immemorial the scene of
bloody warfare, and it is not impossible, considering how events are
shaping themselves in the East, that it may become so again. Rising
gently, by grassy vales carpeted with wild flowers, to a height of about
five hundred feet, we shortly reach the picturesquely situated town of
Shefr Amr, dominated by the extensive walls of its ruined castle.
This has been a place of considerable importance ever since, shortly
after the destruction of Jerusalem, it was the seat of the Jewish
sanhedrim. It was then called Shefaram, and is probably identical with
the Kefraim which Eusebius says was six miles north of Legio, and with
Hapraim, which we read in the Bible was assigned to the tribe of
Issachar. Since then its name has been changed to Shefr Amr, or “the
healing of Omar,” from a tradition that Daher el-Amr, a prince who
governed this country about a hundred and sixty years ago, recovered
here from a severe illness. The fortress is said to have been built by
his son Othman in 1761, and it does not appear to be older, though
probably it occupies the site of a much more ancient castle. It covers a
very extensive area of ground, with crenellated battlements, and
contains stalls for four hundred horses. It is now partly ruined, but a
portion of it is still sufficiently well preserved to be the residence
of the Mudir, or local governor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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