Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
Haifa, April 15.—At the spot where the Jordan issues from Lake Tiberias
there are two large mounds, a fragment of sea-wall, and a causeway on
arches which projects into the river, dividing it from the waters of the
lake, and suggesting that it may possibly, in ancient times, have formed
the approach to a bridge. There is no bridge there now. The river swirls
round the arches, which are choked with ruins and reeds, and in a broad,
swift stream winds its way to the Dead Sea. Here, in old time, stood the
Roman city of Tarichæa, built on the site of a Phœnician fortress of
still older date. Nothing remains but heaps of rubbish covered with
broken pottery, and fragments of sculpture; but it offers, probably, a
rich field for future excavation. The modern name Kerak signifies in
Syriac “fortress,” and its natural position was remarkably strong, as
the Jordan, after leaving the lake, takes a sharp bend to the westward
and flows almost parallel with it, thus leaving an intervening peninsula
on which the town was situated. It was defended on the westward by a
broad ditch, traces of which still remain, connecting the Jordan with
the lake, thus making the peninsula an island approached only by a
causeway.
Josephus mentions Tarichæa as having been an important military post in
the wars of his time. When I visited it the lake was unusually high, and
the Jordan was unfordable, so we were obliged to ferry over, swimming
our horses and mules a distance of seventy or eighty yards across the
rapid current. Then we mounted, and galloped in a southeasterly
direction, over a fertile plain, waving at this season of the year with
luxuriant crops. I was so much struck with the fertility and
agricultural capacity of this region that I made inquiry as to its
ownership, and found that it had been presented by a former sultan to
one of the principal Bedouin sheiks of this Eastern country, and that he
was exempt from all taxation. His lands extend to the foothills, where
the Yarmuk issues from the mountains of Gilead and Jaulan, which we were
now approaching. We had ascended these but a little way when a scene
burst upon us which surprised and delighted us by its wild and
unexpected grandeur. The Yarmuk here enters the plain of the Jordan on
its way to join that river, with a volume of water fully equal to the
latter, pouring its swollen torrent between two perfectly perpendicular
precipices of basalt, which are about two hundred yards apart, and look
like some majestic gateway expressly designed by nature to afford the
river a fitting outlet to the plain after its wild course through the
mountains.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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