Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
On each side of these cliffs the country swells back abruptly to a
height of seventeen hundred feet above the stream. At their base, here
and there, the limestone or basalt rock, for the two formations are
curiously intermixed, crops out sharply, forming terraces with
precipitous sides. The more distant summits are fringed with oak
forests. The general effect of the landscape, as you first burst upon it
after leaving the Jordan valley, is in the highest degree impressive.
The path, gradually ascending, winds along the edge of cliffs, rising to
a sheer height of three hundred feet from the torrent which foams
beneath. We are so close to their margin on the right that it makes us
giddy to look down, while on the left hand grassy slopes, covered with
wild flowers, rise to the base of other cliffs above us. For an hour we
wind along these dizzy ledges. In one place I observed a hundred feet of
limestone superimposed upon two hundred of basalt, the whole forming a
black-and-white precipice very remarkable to look upon. In fact, my
further investigations of this valley of the Yarmuk, some portion of
which, I believe, we were the first to explore, have convinced me that
it affords finer scenery than is to be found in any other part of
Palestine. It is astonishing that it should have remained until now
almost entirely unknown. Where the valley opened a little we saw beneath
us a small plain, almost encircled by the river, and on it about twenty
Bedouin tents. Our unexpected and novel appearance on the cliff above
evidently caused some little stir and amazement, but they were too far
below us to communicate with, so we pushed on to a point where the path
suddenly plunged down by a series of steps between walls of black
basalt, making a very steep descent for loaded mules, and one not
altogether pleasant for mounted men. It had the advantage of bringing us
soon to the bottom, however, but not before my eyes were gladdened by
the sight of one of the objects for which I had undertaken the trip.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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