Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
Haifa, April 30.—In my last letter I described the little-known hot
sulphur springs of Amatha, with their extensive ruins, which indicate
the celebrity they must have acquired in the days of the Romans. As the
river Yarmuk above this point had, so far as I know, never been
explored, I determined to push up the gorges through which it cleaves
its way from the highlands of the Hauran to the valley of the Jordan.
Some years ago I had crossed it about thirty miles higher up, where it
flows across a plateau at an elevation of 1800 feet above the sea. I was
now standing on its margin, 550 feet below the sea. In the course of
this thirty miles, therefore, it has a fall of 2350 feet. In other
words, it was a fair presumption that there was a waterfall somewhere
between those two points which had never been visited. The inquiries
which I made from the natives on the point were unsatisfactory in their
result. They seemed unable to discriminate between a rapid and a
waterfall, and although they told me of many places where the water
rushed with great violence, they seemed to know of none where it was
precipitous. Upon one point they were, unfortunately, all agreed, which
was that there was no path up the river-side, and that it would be found
impossible at this time of year, when the stream was flooded, to force a
way up. However, we determined to try. We thought we should be more free
in our movements if we were unhampered by a guide, and directed only by
our topographical instincts.
We therefore left our tents standing, as a sort of home on which to
retreat in case of need, and struck across the small plain upon which
the springs are situated, to a ford, which four days previously had been
impracticable, but which we were assured we might now risk with safety.
The stream was here a hundred yards broad, full of large rocks, and with
a swift, turbid current that was by no means reassuring. The water came
high up on our saddle-flaps, but we reached the other bank without
mishap, and found ourselves skirting a dense thicket of tropical
underwood, above which a grove of at least three hundred date-trees
reared their tufted crests. It was a spot unlike any other to be found
in Palestine, for, although the heat in the valley of the Jordan, owing
to its depression below the sea, is as great as this, and at its
southern extremity greater, nowhere throughout its length is to be found
a spot where the vegetation is so dense and luxuriant. Here were wild
orange, lemon, fig, almond, and mulberry trees, oleanders growing to a
gigantic size, besides butm, sidr, carob, and other trees peculiar to
the country, and thickets of cane twenty feet high, forming a splendid
cover for the wild boars with which we were assured this jungle abounds.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account