Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
This spring must be of immense volume, to judge by the size of the
torrent which gushed from it, and which was crossed on stepping-stones,
flowing away in what would be considered a good-sized trout stream, to
mingle its waters with the Yarmuk after a course of a few hundred yards.
We determined, when our tents arrived, to pitch them near this spring,
on the brink of another stream which flowed in from the eastward, and
which, though slightly sulphurous, was drinkable. Indeed, we did not
object to taking a moderate amount of this wholesome medicament into our
organisms. We found another strong spring, not quite so hot as the one
in use, a little above our tents, so that there is no lack of water.
Indeed, I doubt whether sulphur springs of so much volume exist anywhere
else in the world. Not far from this, with its back to another mound,
were the ruins of an old Roman theatre, some of the rows of seats still
clearly discernible.
These springs are situated on a plain about a mile long and half a mile
broad, semicircular in shape, the chord of the arc consisting of a line
of basalt precipices, from which it slopes gradually to the river, which
forms the bow. It is watered by a good fresh-water spring, which rushes
from the base of the cliffs. The hot sulphur stream which issues from
the pool we first visited turns a mill and then flows into the long,
oblong pond I first saw from above. Here, after the exertions of the
day, I determined to bathe. I never enjoyed a swim more than the one in
this soft sulphur water, with a temperature of 95°. The pool was about
one hundred yards long and ten wide, and out of my depth nearly
throughout its length. The rocks, upon which I could sit comfortably up
to my neck, where the stream entered the pool were covered with a heavy
white deposit. The sensation afterwards was one of delicious languor;
but my full enjoyment of the bath was a little marred by the fact that I
had to walk a quarter of a mile back to the tents afterwards. I had a
long talk on my way, to the miller, the solitary resident of this lonely
but enchanting spot, and tried to induce him to desert the mill, of
which he was the guardian, and act as my guide up the river on the
following day; but he was either too conscientious, too lazy, or too
ignorant—I suspect the latter, as I found by experience that all the
information he gave me of a topographical nature was utterly erroneous.
It was, therefore, with a pleasing sense of anticipation that we retired
to rest, determined to trust to our own geographical instincts alone for
our proposed exploration.
EXPLORATION OF THE VALLEY OF THE YARMUK.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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