Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
The Druse women of Galilee do not, like those of the Lebanon, cover
their faces; and, indeed, they are allowed a freedom which contrasts
strongly with the position of their Moslem sisters. This wife of the
head sheik enjoyed a privilege denied to any of the other women who had
accompanied their lords to the shrine, for she frequently sat in the
men's council, taking part in the conversation, though modestly, and
with great reserve. In talking to me, which she did freely, I found that
she was bright and intelligent, and full of inquiries as to the manners
and customs of the females of civilization, in regard to whom she had an
intense curiosity. I do not know, however, whether, if it had been fully
gratified, it would have tended very much to her moral and intellectual
improvement. She had brought her baby with her, and was generally
surrounded by some of the more prominent of the other ladies, who,
however, treated her with a marked deference. I watched her mode of
greeting the different ladies as they arrived, with even more interest
than I had that of the men. We read in the Bible of people falling upon
each other's necks; this was exactly what the Druse women did, and very
prettily and gracefully they did it, while they recognized the men by a
distant, modest, and deferential salutation.
THE GREAT FESTIVAL OF THE DRUSES.
Haifa, May 30.—Towards evening of the day on which I arrived at the
great Druse shrine of Neby Schaib, near Hattin, most of the sheiks who
were expected had arrived, with their retinues. It might have been a
feudal gathering of olden time; the noisy welcome of the chiefs, the
clansmen singing war-songs and firing guns, the women following on
donkeys, all combined to make a scene which carried one back to the
Middle Ages, and I never wearied looking at it.
My tent was pitched on the lowest terrace of the sacred building, for it
is not allowed to the unbeliever to pass the night within those holy
precincts. Indeed, it was an unprecedented privilege to be permitted
even to camp on the terrace, where there was only just room for my tent,
nor should I have been allowed to edge in so close to the mysteries of
Druse worship had there been five square yards of level ground within a
quarter of a mile. But the precipitous rocks frowned above us all
around, and the comparatively open space below was crowded with camels,
horses, and donkeys, compelled to chum together, whether they liked it
or not, and where the incessant din added to the general uproar of the
place. The constant and stentorian braying of donkeys, varied
occasionally by a horse fight, mingled with the barking of dogs, the
shrill scream of welcome or ululation of women, the loud singing and
clapping of hands of the dancing circles, and the firing of guns, all
augured badly for a night's rest.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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