Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
However, there was no thought of going to bed yet; great piles of rice
on which whole sheep had been skilfully dissected were now borne in on
round platters, each carried by two men. There must have been from three
to four hundred people now collected at the shrine, and the feeding of
such a multitude was no joke. Of these nearly half were women, all in
gala dress, the favourite colours being blue, green, and red. I don't
know that I ever remember in the same number to have seen a larger
proportion of pretty women.
When I went up-stairs to the large vault which contains the tomb of the
prophet I came upon them unexpectedly, all seated on the floor around
the circular mats of parti-coloured straw which they use as tablecloths.
The room, which was seventy feet long by forty wide, was crowded with
this laughing, chattering, feeding, feminine multitude, with their
glorious eyes, white, regular teeth, bewitching smiles, and delicate
fingers plunged up to the knuckles into huge piles of greasy rice. Their
invitation that I should come and take pot-luck with them produced a
mixed sentiment in my breast. However, it was only said as a joke, for
even had I desired I should not have been allowed to accept it. The
entertainment was exclusively feminine, and I was surprised at so little
reverence being shown to the venerated shrine by the close proximity of
all this festivity.
Taking off our shoes and picking our way between these festive groups,
we reached, at the other end of the hall, the tomb of the prophet,
enclosed in a wooden screen hung with red cloth, while over the tomb
itself was spread a sort of green silk pall, embroidered with gold
stars. Some of the Druse sheiks who accompanied me reverently pressed
their lips to this. They then pointed out a square block of limestone,
in the centre of which was a piece of alabaster containing the imprint
of a human foot of natural size. The toes are defined with more
clearness than is usual in sacred footprints of this nature, and the
Druses stooped and kissed the impression, assuring me that, if I would
do so, I should feel that the rock exuded moisture, and that its
peculiarity was that it was never dry. I was constrained out of
politeness to appear to accede to their wishes, though I refrained from
testing the condition of the stone with my lips, as I felt suspicious,
considering how many lips had preceded mine, that any little dampness I
might discover might be easily accounted for otherwise than
supernaturally.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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