Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
Our attention was now distracted by some rival performances of the male
part of the community in the courtyard below. Here the singing and
clapping of hands were louder and more vehement, and time was given by
one gentleman who played a pipe and another who was a sort of
bandmaster, and directed the changes of time and step. Here the central
figure who danced in the circle, instead of waving veils or
handkerchiefs, flourished a sword with great grace and dexterity,
slashing it about in excellent time to the music, and within an inch
sometimes of the noses, sometimes of the legs, of the performers. The
dancers worked themselves up at last to a high pitch of excitement and
perspiration, new ones perpetually dashing into the ring and taking the
places of those who were exhausted.
At last the gayeties were put an end to by the sheiks, who took no part
in them themselves, but looked on with solemn dignity. The “okâl,” or
initiated in the holy mysteries, despise all such frivolities, which are
reserved for women and the uninitiated. Most of these had been sitting
in a circle in a quiet part of the terrace by themselves, discussing
either religion or the political questions affecting the interests of
their nation, most probably the latter; but the hour had now arrived
when the serious business of the night was to begin and festivity was to
cease. The uproar died away, the elders wished us good-night, and
silently trooped up the stone stairs to the great hall, whence issued
the younger part of the female community, and I retired to the door of
my tent to sit in the bright moonlight and contemplate the strange
surroundings of my night quarters.
Soon there broke upon the stillness of the night the measured cadence of
a sacred chant. Now it swelled, as numerous voices, male and female,
took up the chorus; now it died away to a single voice. Never before,
probably, had stranger been able to listen so closely to the prayers and
invocations which characterize the mysterious and occult worship of the
Druses. One thing surprised me, which I think is not generally known,
and this is that women undoubtedly take part in some of their forms of
worship, not, however, in all, for on the following night they were
excluded, and the service was conducted by males alone. At last I went
to bed, but not to sleep; the noises of the animals, to which I was in
close proximity, for a long time banished repose, and when at last it
came fitfully, I heard ever and anon the rhythm of the sacred chant.
Throughout two entire nights, to my certain knowledge, did these Druses
pray and sing, though, as I fell asleep on each occasion towards
morning, I cannot precisely say at what hour their service was
concluded.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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