Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
Ascending from this scene of revelry up a massive stone stair, I entered
a chamber where the tomb of the rabbi was surrounded by a wooden
enclosure, inside of which were sundry rabbis and their neophytes
praying, with the swaying motion of the body peculiar to that act of
worship, the whole brilliantly lighted with lamps. There was in the
centre of this chamber, which was crowded, an immense chandelier, of
which only a few lamps were lighted, and beyond it I was ushered by a
Jew, who volunteered to be my guide, into another room, stifling hot, in
which sat the chief rabbi himself. Here a man was perpetually shouting
in a stentorian voice something which I failed to understand. The chief
rabbi, however, to whom I was introduced, explained to me that he was at
that moment selling by auction the privilege of lighting the bonfires
which were soon to blaze in honour of the deceased rabbi and Simon Ben
Jochai, who, however, seems to be buried elsewhere. This privilege was
put up at two napoleons each, and the first finally went for three, a
fact which the rabbi announced to the audience in a sonorous Hebrew
chant. Then the other lighting privilege was bought for a little less,
the money, according to my informant, being given to the poor. After
that a dozen more sales were made, simply for lamplighting, the amounts
bid averaging half a napoleon.
Then a sort of procession was formed, and the crowd surged out down the
steps to the courtyard, in the centre of which were two columns, each
surmounted by a sort of large saucer. The excitement now became great,
the dancing stopped, and men and women joined in noisy acclamations. A
man bearing aloft an iron cradle full of flaming rags, which had been
lighted by the highest bidder, placed them in the saucer at the top of
the column and poured a bottle of kerosene oil upon it. People now came
forward with offerings to be burned. These consisted, for the most part,
so far as I could judge, of old handkerchiefs and scarfs. The theory is
that they should be articles of value, covered with gold and silver
embroidery, and that, after they have been committed to the flames, the
residue of gold and silver which remains should be scraped up and given
to the poor; but I doubt whether the residue of the rags which I saw
would amount in value to ten cents. Then the second bonfire was lighted,
and as both piles blazed up and shed their lurid glow over the eager
faces of swarthy men, with their long ear-curls, and bedizened women,
the scene was in the highest degree novel and picturesque. The
proceedings were not, however, characterized by the gravity and harmony
befitting the occasion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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