Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
As I looked down upon the crowd from the steps upon which I was
standing, I observed suddenly a violent commotion, which soon culminated
in blows and sharp cries, and the crowd began to surge violently to and
fro. I failed to discover the cause of the disturbance, but it was
speedily interrupted by a strong body of Turkish police, who rushed in
brandishing their muskets and laying about them with the butt ends. The
riot speedily subsided under this opportune display of energy, and the
ringleaders were hustled off with commendable promptness.
Meantime a somewhat similar ceremony was taking place in the adjoining
courtyard, where some wicker lamps were being lighted. The pilgrims who
filled this court were Ashkenazim, and in their more European clothes
they were by no means so picturesque a crowd. It is a singular fact that
the Sephardim should be confined to one court and the Ashkenazim to
another. There is, indeed, very little sympathy between the two great
branches of the Jewish race in Palestine. They live for the most part in
different cities, and have but little intercourse with each other. Thus,
nearly all the Jews in Tiberias are Sephardim, while those at Safed are
Ashkenazim.
The ceremonies which I have just described are a mild edition of what
was to take place on a far larger and more important scale at Meron a
week later, but as these latter differ in no important respect from
those which I witnessed, I did not think it worth while to stay for
them. Jews come from great distances to take part in the burnings at
Meron, where a great number of bonfires are made in honour of the
numerous celebrated rabbis who are buried in the neighbourhood; and here
I was assured that articles of great value are consumed, and the
festivities are of a much more noisy character, and last through the
whole night instead of winding up before midnight, as was the case at
Tiberias. I did not even prolong my stay till this hour, satisfied with
having assisted at ceremonies which prove that the Jewish in not exempt
from that tendency which characterizes all other religions, of pandering
to the grosser tastes of the masses.
HOUSE-BUILDING ON CARMEL.
Daliet-el-Carmel, July 12.—Those readers who may have read my letters
from Palestine, may remember that last year I took refuge from the
summer heats at the village of Esfia, on the highest point of Mount
Carmel, where I established a temporary camp. The disadvantage of living
under canvas is that, though it may secure you cool nights, it affords
but insufficient shelter from the noonday sun. I therefore determined to
build myself something more substantial. My experiences of
house-building on Carmel have been both characteristic and instructive.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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