Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
Daliet-el-Carmel, Sept. 11.—There is no fact at first more puzzling to
the traveller in Palestine than the contrast between the misery and
poverty of the fellahin and the extent and fertility of land owned by
each village. This is, however, the inevitable result of the various
fiscal devices to which the government has been compelled to resort, in
order to provide a revenue which shall meet the needs of its internal
administration, and the claims of its foreign bondholders. These press
more severely on the peasant class than on any other in the community,
and as the financial necessities of the empire increase, new methods are
being constantly devised to meet them. Thus the latest arrangement
requires the taxes to be paid in money instead of in kind, as
heretofore, the amount being assessed on an average of the crops
extending over a period of five years. This has produced the greatest
consternation among the peasantry throughout the country, who find
themselves quite unable to meet this new demand, and who are compelled,
in consequence, to resort to extortionate money-lenders, who charge from
thirty to forty per cent. for their advances, thus ruining the fellahin,
whose villages are all destined by this process to fall into the hands
of these grasping usurers, while the peasants remain upon them as serfs,
merely receiving so much of the crop as will keep them from starving.
Thus it happened that, in the belief that I had more bowels of
compassion than their own countrymen, I was applied to by the villagers
in all directions; among others, by those who owned the lands of Lejjun,
or the biblical Megiddo. This is generally supposed to be identical with
Armageddon, and the notion of becoming the proprietor of a battle-field
which possesses such interesting historical associations in the past, to
say nothing of the future, which may be mythical or not, according to
theological fancy, induced me to pay a visit to that celebrated
locality. Its position was as tempting as its sentimental considerations
were remarkable. Here, jutting out into the plain of Esdrælon, of which
it commands an extensive view, stands the Tell et Mutsellim, or
governor's hill, upon which the traces of what may have been a palace
are distinctly visible. Right opposite to us across the plain, about
twelve miles distant, the houses of Nazareth gleam upon the lofty
hillside; to the right are Tabor, Little Hermon, and Mount Gilboa, with
the mountains of Gilead in the rear. Beneath, circling round the base of
the mound, are “the waters of Megiddo,” a copious stream, turning two
water-mills and irrigating an extensive tract of plain. Behind us is an
undulating plateau covered with the ruins of the ancient city. Here are
fragments of columns, carved capitals and cornices, and I found some
subterranean chambers into which I crawled, and which, as they connected
with the stream by stone conduits, I assume must, in old times, have
been baths.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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