Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
The peasants have found antiques of various kinds, and I was
shown the hand and forearm of a female figure, life-size, and
beautifully carved in marble, which they had dug up. There is no saying
what treasures the fortunate proprietor of this place may not unearth,
and with the wealth of water at his command, of which but little
advantage is now taken, he might have extensive gardens and orange
groves. From this point a great military road passed, in the most
ancient times, connecting Galilee with the coast road. Along it, before
the conquest of Canaan by the Israelites, Thothmes, the King of Egypt,
led his invading hosts into Syria. Here, by “the waters of Megiddo,” was
fought the great battle between Barak and Sisera, when the stars in
their courses fought against Sisera; and on the same ground, six
centuries later, the hosts of Pharaoh Necho met the army of Josiah, King
of Judah, and vanquished it, while the king himself, being “sore
wounded” as he rode in his chariot, was carried away to Jerusalem to
die.
On making inquiries of a practical kind in regard to the present
financial position of this property and its peasant owners, I began to
suspect that any foreigner who desired to become its possessor would
find himself involved in a struggle of a different kind from that of
which in past times it has been the scene, and one more consonant with
the spirit of the age in which we live. The invasion of Palestine of
late years by foreigners of all religions and nationalities, the
constant influx of Jews, and the increasing attention which the Holy
Land is concentrating upon itself, has so far alarmed the Porte that
foreigners are practically prohibited from purchasing any more land in
the country; and the peasantry of the villages who applied to me for
assistance were informed that, even if I were prepared to lend them
money, they were not to be allowed to borrow. I was thus relieved of the
great annoyance of having constantly to refuse applications, which,
under any circumstances, I could not have satisfied.
From Megiddo I followed the historical highway through the mountain,
which, in the days of Christ, when Cæsarea was rising into its grandeur,
must have been one of the most frequented routes in the country. The
road led through charmingly diversified scenery. I turned off from it to
ascend to the town of Umm-el-Fahm, an important place, containing about
two thousand inhabitants, situated on copse-clothed hills, at an
elevation of fifteen hundred feet above the level of the sea, and
commanding extensive views. Here I was the guest of a local millionaire,
noted for his penurious habits and his grasping nature. His ragged
appearance and humble establishment did not belie his reputation. I had,
however, no reason to complain, for, if the accommodation was rough, his
intentions were certainly hospitable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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