Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
At one village called Arareh I found three old Roman arches, a fine
fragment of a column, and some rock-cut tombs, which seem hitherto to
have escaped observation. The remains indicate that it must have been a
place of considerable importance, but I have not yet been able to
identify it. The plain of Sharon, where we struck it, is being by
degrees brought into cultivation, partly by colonists, Circassian and
Bosnian, and partly by native capitalists. The peasantry themselves are
rapidly losing all proprietorship in the soil, unable to contend against
the exactions of the government tax-gatherer, on the one hand, and of
the usurious money-lender, on the other; but while they are yearly
becoming more impoverished and dependent, the wealth of the country is
steadily increasing, and its development must follow as a matter of
course, though, in accordance with the tendencies of modern
civilization, it will be at the expense of the masses.
I went to lunch with the largest of these local magnates. He was a Turk,
and spoke Turkish in preference to Arabic. He had, as may be supposed,
little sympathy with the Arab peasantry, who were practically his serfs,
and their condition was by no means improved by their lands having
fallen into his hands. On the other hand, they never would have
introduced the civilized iron ploughs with which he was bringing land
into cultivation. His farm-house was a large, straggling, isolated
building, which stood on a hillock in the plain, with extensive
outhouses and dependencies, not unlike the residence of a Southern
planter, while, curiously enough, a large proportion of his farm hands
consisted of African negroes located in a village hard by—but he had
none of the lavish hospitality which characterized the landed
proprietors of the South.
A ride of an hour over a part of the plain which, from the peculiar
quality of its soil, is exclusively devoted to the growth of
water-melons, hitherto the sole export of the little haven of Cæsarea,
brought me to that spot. Although the remains of the old port have been
used as a harbour for coasting craft, these ruins have not been
inhabited since they were evacuated by the crusaders at the end of the
thirteenth century. Indeed, there is a curious prediction connected with
them, to the effect that the rebuilding of a town here would immediately
precede a great disaster to Islam. It has been in consequence of this,
as I have understood, that while villages have sprung up on all the
other crusading ruins on the coast, this one alone has remained
untenanted. However this may be, the spell is broken now, for about six
months ago the first instalment of a band of refugees from Bosnia and
Herzegovina arrived here, having been allotted this ruin and the lands
surrounding it by the government, as the nucleus of a new colony.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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