Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
Apart from the great interest which these extensive ruins must ever have
from an antiquarian point of view, I was anxious to visit Cæsarea to
judge for myself of the prospects of this embryo colony, and make
personal acquaintance with this new and interesting class of immigrants.
Moreover, as the new town is to be built upon the ruins of the old, it
was evident that I should never have another chance of seeing what these
were like. They have already during the last twenty years served as a
quarry from whence the magnificent building-stones, cut originally by
Herod the Great when he built the town, have been transported in
thousands of boat-loads to Acre and Jaffa. The ruins have therefore lost
much of the pristine grandeur which is described in the records of
travellers in the early part of the present century. In a few years more
they will probably have disappeared altogether. The subterranean
treasures, whatever they may be, will, however, remain untouched, and
the Schliemann of a future age will find here the traces of five
successive epochs of civilization. On the top he will find the ruins of
the stone houses of the Bosnians and Herzegovinians, now in process of
erection; below them the foundations of the great Crusading fortress,
and below them again the remains of the first Mohammedan period; beneath
them, traces of the Byzantine period, and, at the bottom, the
tessellated pavements, the fragments of carved marble, the statuary, and
the coins of the Roman period.
Meantime it is a singular fact that the strip of coast from Haifa to
Cæsarea seems to have become a centre of influx of colonists and
strangers of the most diverse races. The new immigrants to Cæsarea are
Slavs. Some of them speak a little Turkish. Arabic is an unknown tongue
to them, which they are learning. Their own language is a Slav dialect.
When the troubles in the provinces of Bosnia and Herzegovina first broke
out, which led to the Russo-Turkish war, a howl of indignation went up
from the philanthropists on both sides of the Atlantic, but especially
from the Radical party in England, against the Turkish government, for
its persecution of the Slav population of the Danubian provinces. Nor do
I think that the general public have yet realized the fact that of these
Slavs more than half were Moslem, and that the Turkish government was
not persecuting them more than it was persecuting any other of its
subjects, but that the persecutors of the Slav peasantry, who were
Christian, were the Slav aristocracy, who were Moslem. It was, in fact,
not a question of an oppressed nationality, but a strictly agrarian
question between people of the same race. When it was settled by handing
over the provinces to Austria, the Slav-Moslem aristocracy, finding
themselves in their turn persecuted by their former peasants and the
Christian power which protected them, migrated to the more congenial
rule of the sultan. So the curious spectacle is presented of a Slav
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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