Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
One of these families lives at a village about two hours' ride from
here. In response to a letter couched in the most flowery Oriental
hyperbole, in which my rank is exalted, my virtues are exaggerated, and
the beneficent warmth which my presence is supposed to radiate is dwelt
upon, I determine to shed it upon the writer of the letter; in other
words, to pay him a visit in the gardens to which he has invited me. Our
way lies down a wild, romantic gorge which leads to a valley situated
among the lower spurs of Carmel, beyond the confines of the mountain
proper, where the country is broken up by volcanic action into chasms
and precipices, well adapted for defensive purposes, and admirably
calculated to be the stronghold of a not over-scrupulous tribal chief.
The village itself is situated upon a high conical mound, rising some
three hundred feet above the plain; and towering above the surrounding
houses is the high, two-storied, half-castellated mansion. It is not
thither that I am at present bound, but to a narrow valley about a mile
distant from it, which is wedged in between frowning precipices, and is
a bright green strip, in delightful contrast to the gray, overhanging
crags, for it is a dense mass of orange, lemon, fig, pomegranate, olive,
quince, and other fruit-trees, the result of a crystal fountain which
gushes from the rock and fertilizes this fairy-like scene.
These are the summer gardens of my host, and from them, as he sees me
approach, he issues, with several of his retainers, and leads me to an
arbour of overhanging trees, whose dense foliage forms an impenetrable
shade against the noonday sun. Here carpets have been spread, cushions
arranged, narghiles and coffee have been prepared, and the circle is
formed and the compliments interchanged which are the invariable prelude
to an Eastern entertainment. Soon appear, on prancing horses, a
picturesque group of men in white flowing _abbayes_, or transparent
summer robes, which flutter gracefully in the wind. They are richly
embroidered, and the horses are gayly comparisoned; these are the
brothers, nephews, and other members of my host's family. One of them is
a holy man, who has studied theology in the celebrated seat of Moslem
learning, the College of El-Ahzar, in Cairo, and he is much respected
and looked up to in consequence.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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