Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
They led me to what I supposed was a place of honour, where soft
coverlets had been spread near the door of the mosque. We formed the
usual squatting circle, and were sipping coffee, when suddenly every one
started to his feet; a dark, active little man seemed to dart into the
midst of us. Everybody struggled frantically to kiss his hand, and he
passed through us like a flash to the other end of the platform,
followed by a tall negro, whose hand everybody, including my
aristocratic host, seemed also anxious to kiss. I had not recovered from
my astonishment at this proceeding, when I received a message from the
new-comer to take a place by his side. I now found that he was on the
seat of honour, and it became a question, until I knew who he was,
whether I should admit his right to invite me to it, thus acknowledging
his superiority in rank—etiquette in these matters being a point which
has to be attended to in the East, however absurd it may seem among
ourselves. I therefore for the moment ignored his invitation, and asked
my host, in an off-hand way, who he was. He informed me that he was a
mollah, held in the highest consideration for his learning and piety all
through the country, upon which he, in fact, levied a sort of religious
tax; that he was here on a visit, and that in his own home he was in the
habit of entertaining two hundred guests a night, no one being refused
hospitality. His father was a dervish, celebrated for his miraculous
powers, and the mantle thereof had fallen upon the negro, who had been
his servant, and who also was much venerated, because it was his habit
to go to sleep in the mosque, and be spirited away, no one knew whither,
in the night; in fact, he could become invisible almost at will.
Under these circumstances, and seeing that I should seriously embarrass
my host if I stood any longer on my dignity, I determined to waive it,
and joined the saint. He received me with supercilious condescension,
and we exchanged compliments till dinner was announced, when my host
asked whether I wished to dine alone or with the world at large. As the
saint had been too patronizing to be strictly polite, I thought I would
assert my right to be exclusive, and said I would dine alone, on which
he, with a polite sneer, remarked that it would be better so, as he had
an objection to eating with any one who drank wine, to which I retorted
that I had an equal objection to dining with those who ate with their
fingers. From this it will appear that my relations with the holy man
were getting somewhat strained.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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