Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
I was, therefore, supplied with a pyramid of rice and six or seven
elaborately cooked dishes all to myself, and squatted on one mat, while
a few yards off the saint, my host, and all his brothers squatted on
another. When they had finished their repast their places were occupied
by others, and I counted altogether more than fifty persons feeding on
the mosque terrace at my host's expense. Dinner over, they all trooped
in to pray, and I listened to the monotonous chanting of the Koran till
it was time to go to bed. My host offered me a mat in the mosque, where
I should have a chance of seeing the miraculous disappearance of the
negro; but as I had no faith in this, and a great deal in the snoring by
which I should be disturbed, I slept in a room apart, as exclusively as
I had dined.
I was surprised next morning to observe a total change in the saint's
demeanour. All the supercilious pride of the previous evening had
vanished, and we soon became most amiable to each other. That he was a
fanatic hater of the Giaour I felt no doubt, but for some reason he had
deemed it politic to adopt an entirely altered demeanour. It was another
illustration of the somewhat painful lesson which one has to learn in
one's intercourse with Orientals. They must never be allowed to
outswagger you.
THE JORDAN VALLEY CANAL.
Haifa, Nov. 10.—In one of my former letters I described the nature of
the concession which had been obtained by some capitalists at Beyrout
for the construction of a railway from Haifa to Damascus, and of the
survey of the line, which had already been completed half-way to the
latter city. The matter has been the subject of a good deal of financial
intrigue, and the capital which was sought for in London has not been
forthcoming in consequence. A new element of uncertainty has just been
imported into the project by the agitation created by the proposal to
connect the Red Sea with the Mediterranean by means of a ship canal,
which, commencing at Haifa, should be cut through the plain of Esdraelon
to the valley of the Jordan, letting the waters of the Mediterranean
into the Ghor, as that valley is called, and connecting the lower end of
the Dead Sea with the Red Sea by a canal which should debouch at Akaba.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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