Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
Haifa, Feb. 2.—I narrated in my last letter the disappointment I
experienced when, after making a pilgrimage to the north end of the Lake
of Tiberias for the express purpose of seeing some stones covered with
inscriptions and pictorial representations, said to be in the possession
of the agent of a rich Arab proprietor, I found their owner gone and the
relics locked up in a building of which he had taken the key, and all
ingress to which was impossible. The Bedouin sheik whom I had picked up
as a guide at a neighboring encampment, seeing my chagrin, comforted me
by the assurance that if I would only follow him he would take me to a
place where I could find others which were quite as good. I mounted my
horse, therefore, in somewhat better spirits, as from his description of
the locality I knew it must have escaped the attention of all former
travellers, and consoled myself by the reflection that a discovery of
some importance might still be in store for me.
Our way took us due north across the fertile plain of the Butêha, an
alluvial expanse about two miles in length by one in breadth, formed by
the detritus which, in the course of ages, has been washed down the
Jordan, and the winter torrents which rush into the plain down the wadys
that descend from the elevated plateau of Jaulan.
The Butêha is not unlike the plain of Genesareth. Both are well watered
and extremely fertile. Butêha has the largest and most prominent brooks,
Genesareth the most numerous and abundant springs. The old traveller,
Burckhardt, says that the Arabs of the Butêha have the earliest
cucumbers and melons in all this region. It was on this plain, at the
foot of the hill or “tell” we were now approaching, that Josephus fought
the Romans under Sylla, concerning which battle he says: “I would have
performed great things that day if a certain fate had not been my
hinderance, for the horse on which I rode and upon whose back I fought
fell into a quagmire and threw me to the ground, and I was bruised on my
wrist and was carried into a certain village called Cuphernome or
Capernaum.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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