Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
The tell which rises from this plain, about a mile and a half from the
lake, is thickly strewn with ruins, consisting of hewn blocks of black
basalt, with which, in the ancient times, all the houses in this region
were constructed; but as yet no traces of any large building have been
discovered. It has, indeed, been very rarely visited, but it is
considered by many to be the site of Bethsaida-Julias and the scene of
the miracle of the loaves and fishes. At present all we know for certain
is that one of the Bethsaidas was somewhere in the Butêha; that Josephus
in his descriptions advanced it to the dignity of a city, both by reason
of the number of inhabitants it contained and its other grandeur; and
that inasmuch as the plain of the Butêha contains many heaps of ruins,
none of any very great extent, any of them may be Bethsaida, while if it
were a large city in our modern acceptation of the term, the whole plain
would not be large enough to contain it.
Indeed, one is much struck in exploring the ruins of the country by the
limited areas which they cover. I am afraid to say how many sites of
ruined towns I have visited in Palestine, certainly not less than forty;
and I think one could crowd them all into the area occupied by the ruins
of one large ancient Egyptian city—Arsinoë in the Fayoum, for instance;
but then the ruins of an Egyptian city are composed mainly of mounds of
potsherds, while these consist of large blocks of building stone, either
limestone or basalt, measuring generally two feet or two feet six one
way, and a foot or eighteen inches the other. Then they are usually
comparatively near together; all around the Lake of Tiberias, and in the
country in its vicinity, they are generally not more than from one to
three miles apart; so that this section of country must have been very
thickly peopled. The ruins of Et-Tell are now built over by the Arabs,
who live in a squalid village among the basalt blocks which formed the
mansions inhabited by the more highly civilized race which occupied the
country in the days when all this region was the favourite haunt of
Christ and his disciples.
Leaving Et-Tell on our left, we followed the east bank of the Jordan for
more than a mile. This river is here very rapid, and, splitting into
numerous streams, whirls past the small islets they form. It is the very
ideal of a trout stream, on which on some more propitious occasion I
propose to cast a fly. Meantime, even had I been provided with the
requisite tackle, I should have been obliged to forego the temptation.
It was on the steep rise of a hill, about a hundred yards from the
river, that my guide suddenly stopped. Here was a small collection of
Arab hovels, recently constructed, and it was in their search for stone,
last summer, that the natives had for the first time uncovered the ruin
which now met my delighted gaze.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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