Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
I could find no inscription, but it would take days to examine all the
stones thoroughly, and it is most probable that a careful investigation
of them would reveal something which would throw a still more definite
light on the character and period of the building, though I confess I
entertain very little doubt in respect to either. Altogether I regard
these ruins of Umm el-Kanatar as the most interesting discovery I have
yet made, and as being well worthy another visit and a more minute
examination than I was able to bestow upon them.
The sheik now appeared to think he had done his duty, and expressed his
intention of returning to his village and of leaving me to find my way
down the Wady Samak by myself. This I did not object to, as there was
still plenty of daylight, and I could, in fact, make out from where I
was now standing the position of the ruins of Kersa on the margin of the
lake, whither I had despatched my servants and baggage animals direct
from my last night's quarters, with orders to await my arrival there.
It was up the branch of the wady that I was descending that the
projected railway from Haifa to Damascus would have to be led, and it
was some satisfaction to see that it offered facilities for the ascent
of the line. The scenery was in the highest degree picturesque, the
sides of the valley sometimes sloping back for some distance to the foot
of the basalt precipices which formed its upper wall; at others these
approached and formed projecting and overhanging promontories, like that
on which the Kasr Berdawil was situated. We scrambled down by a rugged
path to the small stream at the bottom with the view of following it, if
possible, to its outlet on the lake, but this we soon found to be
impracticable, and were assured by a Bedouin, whose hut we finally
reached on its margin, that we must cross it, and make an ascent on the
opposite side. This led us by a roundabout, hilly, but picturesque route
across numerous and intersecting wadys, and past one ruin, of which
nothing remained but the black blocks of hewn basalt. I was fortunate
enough, however, to meet a man who told me the name, which I added to my
list of unknown ruins, and so, after much scrambling, we reached at last
the white limestone strata, and the purling brook again with its fringe
of oleanders, and could see in the distance the one large solitary tree
which we had given as our rendezvous, and beneath which our servants
were standing, that marks the site of the ruins of Kersa, or the Gergesa
of the Bible, where Christ healed the two men possessed with devils, and
suffered those malignant spirits to enter into the herd of swine.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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